Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess
Trevor,
First of all, let me thank you for all of your input and guidance on my alternator configuration; it is very much appreciated. I must admit that have received much more concerns and caveats that I had expected.
I had found evidence of arcing at the alternator from a loose connection. When I removed the two original white wires from the plastic channel, I found that the casings had cracked and split in many places, allowing moisture to get in and corrosion to develop; the copper strands had oxidized a bright blue-green. It was then that I deceided to replace them the way I did.
The car is running perfectly with no odd electrical symptoms. The sneak circuit I inadvertantly created seems to be doing nothing strange so far.
However in the interests of true safety and piece of mind, I may make a small reconfiguration.
I would take the two white alternator wires (which were shortened and attached directly to the battery) and splice them into one larger 8 gauge wire. I would them run them back to the alternator under the manifold and reconnect them to their original connection point on the alternator from the opposite side.
The electrical circuit would be exactly the same as the original circuit, with the alternator wiring upgrade and inline fuse.
If you have another alternative for this, I would welcome your suggestion. Would adding a fuse into the circuit between the two white wires and the battery be sufficient?
Thanks again. I am so glad that you are back at times like these. 
John
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Good one John.
Our problem is that the wiring diagram, as has now been kindly published within the thread, does not appear to coincide with the actual car wiring, particularly in regard to junction points.
Your first post contained the following statement which is difficult to understand:-
Looking inside the original black plastic wiring channel that runs along the rear of the A/C compressor and alternator you will find two white wires that attach to the alternator charging post. One of these goes back to the battery through a fusible link (Via fuse box terminal No. 1.)
and the other goes to one side of the ignition switch. (Via fuse box terminal No. 2, and a separate fused circuit.)
Using a multi meter, I found that the two white wires have approximately the same voltage at the alternator connection as is measured at the battery.
I removed the two white wires and cut them back about two feet. One of these wires was factory-spliced into three (???) wires close to the battery.
One wire from the alternator spliced into two makes more sense. You could be referring to the resulting three wires in total, joining at the connection.
On this basis I would analyse that one wire is spliced into two close to the battery, and in fact one of these two (The battery through a fusible link.) is routed to fuse box terminal No. 1 and SBF holder terminal No. 2. The second wire (Ultimately, one side of the ignition switch.) is routed to fuse box terminal No. 2. Refer also my inserts within your text.
It can only be assumed that the diagram is in error and what I have described is the actual original set up. My car is a JDM so that I can not use it as a reliable match with yours, therefore I must ask you to confirm all is as I say.
At that point I can advise regarding your very best arrangement. Meantime all circuits are connected and the problem is confined to fusing and is purely a safety issue.
It would seem that you have endeavoured to identify the wiring by means of voltage testing, which can provide confusing results due to parallel circuits and will certainly have made things difficult for you.
After becoming involved in this lengthy and confusing topic, I have second thoughts regarding returning to the site!
