[RisingPhoenix]

Originally Posted by smc

Ive had no issue with them what so ever. However as oab_au pointed out: "The standard coils have a primary resistance of 0.7 ohms. This means that when the ECU turns the coil on for the dwell period, a primary current of 30 amps will flow, instead of 17 amps. This current is flowed by the Ignitor till the amperage reaches about 4 amps, when the Ignitor holds it at this level till the ECU turns it off to fire the coil, due to the lower primary resistance, it will rise to this level faster, and is held at this amperage for a longer time.

This presents two problems; First the coil or the Ignitor will finally burn out from the extra current. Second, because the coil has on lower primary resistance, the rise time, to build the magnetic field will be faster, and as they don’t have a diode in the secondary to prevent the coil from firing, on the field rising, the plug will fire at the start of the dwell period and again at the end, advancing the spark.

If you and going to use different coils, the dwell period of the ECU will have to be reduced to suit the coils primary resistance, and use the diode to protect against firing on the start of the rise time. If they are used with Capacitive Discharge ignition, they can be used without the dwell change and the diode, but the wires will still be trouble."

In other words, try to find a coil that has a primary resistance as close to 0.7 ohms that you can. Otherwise you may run the risk of burning out your ignitor block. My 0.4 ohm coils have not given me any trouble as of yet. But, then again, I dont have a ton of miles on this conversion. Only about 8,000.

This is why I only use OEM for anything electronic. Those thinner coils on aftermarket can't handle that extra amperage (giving you that illusion of better performance) while slowly FRYING the igniter
It'll work for about 5 years until the igniter or a coil goes BUST.