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The miracle of brazing, or silver soldering is that it's possible to keep the temperature low enough not to anneal the metal.
I'm sorry, you're right about the location of the ball joint. On some cars it's inverted. My mistake.
In this case, it's even easier to modify since the part that you need to modify is somewhat distant from the ball. You could probably weld to it in sort bursts, especially if you cooled it between welds. The only part of the joint that needs to be hardened is the friction surfaces and the neck of the shaft, so as long as you keep the heat away from those parts, you're in business.
Here's an even cooler idea: Find a large nut and turn it down to fit into the ball joint socket on the hub. (I'll call this large nut the 'nut insert'.) Turn down the part of the ball joint that goes into the hub. (I'll call that part the 'ball insert'.) Thread the reduced ball insert to fit the nut insert. Somewhere near the neck of the ball insert drill a very small hole so a piece of safety wire can be installed just in case. Thread a jam nut onto the ball insert and then thread on the nut insert. Now when the assembly is installed, you can adjust the position of the ball joint by loosening the jam nut and threading the ball insert in and out of the nut insert. The only thing better than that is sliced bread.
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