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Yeah, it's hard to swallow that 2 would be bad.
But mine wasn't "bad". As in, it didn't work. It did work, it was just weak. When they totally go out, their resistance becomes an open. When that happens, you will know, cause your radiator fans will never turn off. They will stay on anytime the car is running regardless of temp. That's the failsafe when the sensor completely go out, along with driving like a sputtering go-kart. Mine never reached that point. It was just bad enough to destroy a smooth transition from cold engine, to warmed engine.
If you want to check it, it should be 30Kohm with engine cold (68*F), and around 400ohms with engine fully warmed up(176*F). The bad one I had showed 26Kohm cold, and 1.2Kohm fully warmed up. I think that affects the fuel map, and thats where our problems come in.
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Robert
Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me.
Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup??
1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!)
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