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Originally Posted by wawazat??
Thanks Trevor 
I brought front tire pressure up to 44psi and rears to 38psi. Fronts did not roll over (paint mark showed I used all of the tread surface available) and backs did not either. I have a number of things I need to modify/optimize, the first being the nut behind the wheel
-alignment-I'd like more static negative camber and possibly a toe change as the car tracks rutted roads too much. Camber bolts will help, strut mount replacement is preferred.
-anti-sway bars and bushings-I'd like to increase front sway bar dia. to reduce the still significant understeer without resorting to dramatically increased front spring rates as the car is still used for road trips. The bushes are 12 year old OEM Japanese rubber and as such, in need of replacement.
-better seat and proper harnesses to hold me in place without having to brace against the car.
-various power legal mods-just because 
Todd |
As I previously noted, you again confirm that you know what you are doing. Tyres, rolling/distorting under cornering side loads, must be avoided as a number one. Some who are badly guided fit tyres over specification to normal width wheels, which is bad, bad news. I have gone the opposite and have narrower larger section tyres on the standard wheels. This does not change the rolling diameter but straightens up the sidewalls. A drivers car is always my desire, and the handling is much more responsive.
Big yes on the sway bar and specially the bushings. Bugger any noise or harshness, you do not want any delay in the response to roll resistance.
Another yes on some negative camber to stop tyre roll. In point of fact I have found that in moderation, this can assist tyre wear, (outside edges) particularly in round town driving, with many abrupt right angle corners.
Good one on the seat also. Straight arms and feel the car through your back side. The only way to go.