Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess
Maybe I have been unclear.
I have not removed any of the fusible links from the system. All I have done is shortened the wires by about 2 feet, which were originally connected at the alternator post, and connected them straight to the battery.
With the normal wiring upgrade in place, measuring the normal voltage at the alternator post, where these wires were attached, was the same as at the battery terminal. It is getting the same current and voltage, just at a different junction. The original circuitry and fusible link protection has not been touched or removed-- just two pieces of old wire. We added new ring terminals to the original (same gauge) wire and connected them
I do not have mega-gazillion watt stereo amplifiers that need the extra current draw. I will be drawing the same current from this alternator as the stock one it replaced, to fulfill the requirements of our stock electrical system at any given time. I still have the 60A inline fuse in the main wire from the alternator to the battery as additional protection.
It just gives me the same amperages that I need, but at a lower RPM. At idle, with my turn signals operating, I do not hear the change in fan speed of my climate control like I used to.
If my car hasn't burned to a crisp by then, take a closer look at this at Reading. Even svxfiles had absolutely no concerns with this arrangement-- maybe he can shed some additional insights on this.
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I did not suggest that you have removed the fusible link, but you have bypassed it in respect of the alternator sub wiring. You state in your original post:-
“I removed the two white wires and cut them back about two feet. One of these wires was factory-spliced into three wires close to the battery. I put new ring connectors on each of these wires and connected them straight to the battery.”
The original arrangement protected these circuits as they were subsequent circuit wise, to the fusible link. You did not answer my e-mail query, as to whether your faulty wiring was in fact original. If not this could have lead you astray with the rewiring and the desired connection via the fuse box and fusible link.
The heavy wiring you have correctly protected with a fuse and in respect of gauge should be OK. It is not at all likely that the heavy wiring could become overloaded to any dangerous extent due to the short length involved, possible voltage drop being the main concern.
Forget the sales blurb regarding oxygen free copper, however fine stranding providing good flexibility is worthwhile, as are good connections and mechanical robustness. In this regard you are much commended.