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Old 01-18-2006, 01:31 PM
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Speedklix Speedklix is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: North Shore, MA
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yeah danny, the tube is probably a better idea for him.

Not sure what your knowledge is pavan... but when you crawl under there to look at the rack, look at the hose ends where they connect to the rack. If you see slits in the end of the hose, replace it. Even if the clamp is on tight the hoses harden with time and those small breaks, while they may not go past the clamp, do form a passage between the line (pipe/connector/etc) and the hose where the pressure forces fluid out. Also be sure not to tighten the clamp too much as over tightening will cause the end of the hose to "mushroom" and encourage splits. When I was chasing leaks, I found that the rack had been serviced and whoever did it tightened the clamps as much as they could.

I would switch out the fluid with atf if the bearings on the accessories and the belt check out fine as danny described. If you do need to remove those hoses... that'll sort of force you to replace alot of it anyway. I could be wrong (anyone chime in) but I think the silicone content of PSfluid causes it to flow through the rack insufficiently. If you find that you do need to replace some hoses.. flush the system after with something like lubegard. Hose material, paint, and varnish can end up in your rack and slow fluid, and this helps loosen it. you may even have little bit of rust in there if it was running with low fluid. Flushing with an additive isn't tremendously important, but it does help a bit.

I was just under the car earlier today and was thinking I should share all that with yeah incase you didn't already know. I hope all goes well, and you solve the problem quick.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
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