AHA! Now I understand! THANKS! However, two questions:
1. How would I practically do this in following the shop manual troubleshooting guide procedures? Are you saying that in the case of checking the ECU grounds I mentioned earlier, instead of removing and probing the terminal (14, 15, 24, 25 of connector B62 for example) in the harness connector while the other ohmmeter probe is at ground (should be 0 ohms), I should leave the (B62) connector plugged in (but tap the appropriate terminal wire now from behind with one voltmeter probe attached [14, 15, 24, or 25 for example]) and the other probe should be grounded [with the ignition ON or the engine at IDLE] >> Less than 0.5 volts= GOOD >>More than 0.5 volts is BAD. Is this what y'all are saying?
2. With all you and Beav have said, isn't it true that the underdash ground and the engine compartment ground SHOULD NOT BE DIFFERENT! What does that mean? ESPECIALLY, WHAT DOES IT MEAN THAT THIS DIFFERENCE IN RESISTANCE VARIES FROM 15 TO 300 ohms, DEPENDING ON WHETHER THE IGNITION IS OFF [15 to 25 ohms], ACC [40 to 70 ohms], or ON [150 to 300+ ohms] ???
THANKS for your thoughtful and time-consuming help!
__________________
Jim
1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) -
"ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System>
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15 Min MOD>
20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme! 