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Old 07-07-2008, 11:16 PM
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Hondasucks Hondasucks is offline
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Location: Vancouver, WA
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Re: How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

Changing brake fluid is pretty easy. Use the mityvac to suck ALL the old fluid out of the master cylinder, and fill it with new fluid. (Don't worry about the "MAX" line at this point). I will usually flip the full bottle of brake fluid upside down into the top of the master cylinder, so I don't run out.
Attach the mityvac to one of the bleeder screws, and open the screw, suck the fluid out until it comes out clean, repeat with the other three, then remove the bottle from the master cylinder and suck it down to the proper level.


Brake job:

Front:
Remove caliper (14mm bolt), crack bleeder screw and press pistons back into caliper, close bleeder screw. Remove old brake pads and anti-rattle clips. Install new pads with new anti-rattle clips, and anti squeal shims.
To intall the rotors, you'll need to remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle. They are tight, you'll need a breaker bar.

Rears are similar, except you'll probably want to adjust the parking brake while you are in there.

What does your local dealer charge for a brake job? We charge roughly 2 hours per axle (@$85/hour) plus parts, although if you already have the parts, it'd be labor only. Might be worth it for safety's sake, as it easy to goof up if you don't know what you are doing, but brakes are really easy.

Most important thing to remember is once you get it all back together, pump the brake pedal a few times, to take up the slack in the system, since you will not have any brakes until this is done!
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1992 SVX LS-L #1222 Pearl White
1987 GL Turbo wagon, 5 lug conversion, D/R 5 speed (Rice killer)
1992 Dodge Ram 4x4 diesel (car hauler)
1968 Dodge Polara convertible (Camaro killer)
1990 Toyota Corolla FWD auto (330,000 mile grocery getter)
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