There are a lot of things you have to do to change those oil seals. I have been into the SVX engine three times now, down to the seal level and once on 2.2 Legacy. So I have learned a few things.
To write up all the steps would take a long time but I can give you some advice for free.
I am not going over the removal stuff, you know the ac, ps belts and brackets, just the sticky steps.
Take the radiator out so you got more room to work, regardless of Beav saying it can be done. You and I don'y have his skill level.
You need a tool to hold the crank pulley so you can get the bolt out. There are posts on this subject, some rather interesting approaches leading to varied methods. You may need a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3' pipe to break the bolt loose if it hasn't been out in awhile.
After the timing belt cover is off, the timing marks have to be aligned and marked. The marks on the belt DO NOT need to be marked. The marks on the cam pulleys and crank are to be marked. The crank is turned by putting the crank pulley back ON loosely. Turning the crank pulley aligns the marks. Keep these in position while working.
After the T belt is out you will need a tool to hold the cam pulley to get cam pulley bolt out and again maybe a 1/2"bb-p. I made a tool for this.
You will have to pull off the crank T-belt cog and a puller maybe needed. I needed one the first time I pulled it off.
The woodruff key will have to be removed. Don't loose it. It fits tight in the shaft keyway and is special
Beav has revealed his "secrets" for pulling oil seals, so this is searchable.
You will need cylindrical items of some length to install the new oil seals. These have a slightly smaller OD then the seal to be installed. Beav has used large sockets for this. I suspect deep sockets. Not readily available at Sears or other stores in the size needed. This is also searchable for "Beav secrets" of installing oil seals, protect the shaft.
You will need torque wrenches.
You will need a small HARDENED allen key that will be cut and shaped and used to hold the T belt tensioner plunger after compressing. The plunger compression can be done in a large vise or with a small pipe clamp, a wood workers item.
That's about all I remember at this time. You may also want to replace your oil pump, water pump and radiator too.
Oh yeah, when you get the T-belt back in and set it on the marks, tension the belt by turning a cam cog. This will take the slack out of the T-belt before the tensioner is installed. There is also a post on installing the tensioner or should I say wrong install.
Gosh I just love working on this car.
One other point, when tightening/loosening the cam pulley bolts, tighten with hand motion force in the horizontal direction. This puts forces in line with the head bolts. Its safer than vertical which can shift the head on the block if the head is so inclined. IT's just something I started doing after having a head gasket go.