well, to be honest... the alt should not be turned too much without being connected. I said disconnect it forgetting that you are not in a garage
. In a shop most cars have the key turned to keep the wheels unlocked, which would make the electrical system active. So as a precaution, you would disconnect the alt or belt along with batt. to prevent any current from potentially powering the ecu and have it try to start as you turn the crank by hand!
Sorry about being blind to the situation.
So how did the starter come back?
If good, I would take a spade connector and plug it into the connector that goes to the starter (the small wire) Attach/touch the + multimeter probe/clip to the spade and the - one to the batt - terminal. Have an assistant turn the key and see what you are getting for voltage. You could also turn the key to the on position and use a (fused) wire to touch the + batt terminal and the other end to that spade the small connector would slip onto to see if it will start that way. That little connector is what tells the started to turn, it will only get power when the car is in neutral/park and the ignition is turned to start. If jumping works, then your problem is either the ignition switch, the neutral saftey switch, a relay, or the wires connecting them all.
but if it reads fine and jumping does not help, I would pull the two cam sensors and compare resistance on the two. If they differ much, then one is likely to be bad. Sounds like the one on top of the block is the culprit. Get a replacment (new or used) and compare the resistance again. If they are close then slap em in and start her up.