Back at this after a much needed break.
Quote:
Originally Posted by longassname
I would take Tapani's advice and check the +12v supply to your coils on the right bank. Particularly since it's quick and easy to do.
I'm not a big believer in the idea that the timing belt slipped on it's own because your car is a stick shift. If it really did slip then I don't think it was put together right to begin with. It seems as likely to me that someone has put this engine back together wrong as it is that it's an electrical problem. I think we just want it to be electrical so you don't have to pull the engine out again.
We could be looking at a bad head gasket because the old head bolts were re-used or new bolts were used but just not torqued right.
We could be looking at a loss of compression because the intake and exhaust lash adjusters were mixed up. I gave a how to write up for disassembling the lash adjusters and priming them with fresh oil before re-installation in the thread on my 9.3 compression engine. I did notice in your videos that your lash adjusters sound awefull.
We could be looking at the camshafts being installed wrong.
I would probably do a compression check on all 6 cylinders now and get real #'s to confirm if you still have a compression problem or not. All 6 coils and spark plugs are removed to do this. I would give specific instructions to keep track of which coils are which and to swap the left and right bank coils when they put it back together. I would also give specific instructions to install brand new spark plugs and not to try to adjust the gap on them. If the compression test shows no or very low compression on the passenger/right bank they can stop there and pull the engine. If the compression test is good I would have them go ahead and have them swap the fuel injectors between the left and right banks to eliminate the possibility that the injectors on the right bank got clogged while the car was sitting. The problem would still exist but would switch sides. If the compression proves good but the car isn't firing on the right bank for some other reason this will be proved by your brand new spark plugs remaining brand new after you start the engine. I would expect this to be 2 to 3 hours of shop time plus the new set of plugs. This is better than potentially unlimitted shop time spent tinkering around.
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I will relay your suggestions to them after confirming the ECU is not the problem. There is literally nothing else to replace after this point.
I have purchased an ECU (~$60), swapped the Subiechips over, and installed it.
I have a brand new problem, I think because the ECU I bought is bad or I installed the chips incorrectly, but I can't tell. The markings on the case were practically identical to the original. The new ECU itself was unmolested, still having the plastic chip slot protector and black resistor intact. I clipped the brown resistor as indicated for the Subiechips, though I only clipped one end and left the other end attached. There should be no continuity.
The only other change made was I disconnected the plug behind the passenger headlight going to the ABS unit as I suspected it was draining the battery and not doing much else.
Here is a video of what the car is doing when the key is turned on (turn volume up):
https://youtu.be/qt1kWMCvHns
When I turn the ignition on the starter just churns, doesn't catch. Not really expecting it to with this check engine and clicking weirdness.
Also this is speculative, but I have a volt readout on my positive terminal, it was fluctuating quite a lot after the ECU install but before the key was first turned. I suppose it is possible that water has pooled somewhere and caused this problem. Unfortunately I did not check the condition of the vehicle before pulling the ECU and the battery was flat. I swapped the ECUs before charging the battery.