Well.. Let's start with AWD drifting 101..
To drift an AWD vehicle requires a significantly different technique than RWD. In a RWD drift, throttle application and steering input angle determine the arc and line through the corner. In an AWD drift, as all 4 wheels are "loose" under power, ( 'cause yeah.. although an SVX won't rip all 4 lose in a straight line without a lot of work, it will happily rip all 4 loose when close to the edge of lateral traction), reaction to steering input is significantly different than RWD.
Also, please "get" that I'm not talking about hockey puck tires, put on a show, go slower than a moped, make lotsa lotsa smoke holy G ain't I cool , can you hear my rev limiter and blow off valve poppin drifting. This is about exceeding 100% of available lateral traction, keeping control, and slapping a smile on your face that a sledge hammer couldn't take off.
Yes, I know there are other methods... but.. here's mine..from trial and ( a lot of ) error.
To properly drift an AWD vehicle, it is necessary to first precess the vehicle in relationship to arc of the corner. In this context, "precess" refers to rotating the mass of the vehicle around it's center of gravity. Think of it like this, if it'll take you 10 seconds to complete a 90 degree corner, you want to have the vehicle precessing at that same rate. A slower precession rate, and the front will tend to wash out to the outside of the turn, a faster precession rate will lead to the rear end coming to the outside of the turn when you don't want it to. An SVX with less power than needed to maintain speed in a corner, will slightly understeer. With a bit more power, it's almost neutral. Properly precessed, at the corner entry, oversteer with power on, is achievable and controllable.
Here's another word that helps with drifting.. or actually, recovering from one that's not going as well as you'd like.. "stiction".. for the purposes of drifting, or recovery from an accidental understeer... It means that a tire generates it's maximum grip just as it breaks loose. Ever see an interior shot of a race car in a hard corner, and the driver is pulling the steering wheel back and forth in a 90 degree arc?.. he's taking the front wheels from not sliding, to sliding and back again. More for an increasingly tight radius turn, you've backed of the power a bit, but it's not gathering up as quickly as you'd like.. Play with that in a parking lot.. you'll see where that's a valuable technique. It can also be used just before breaking traction with the throttle to set up a bit of oversteer in a drift.
Dropping resistor mod? Piece of cake! Find the connector just behind the battery. That's what you want to McGuyver... Try an electronics surplus supply for the resistors ( (1) 20 OHM x 25 Watt , (1) 30 OHM x 25 watt, etc.) See if they have any decent clip together connectors that look durable and reasonably waterproof, if not , hit up an RC hobby shop, they'll have exactly what you need. Cut out the old one, and solder and shrink wrap the female end under the hood, and a male end to the factory resistor, and the ones you bought. Plug one in and close the hood and go for a test drive, see what you think.
Wanna get funky? .. you could always wire a few of them up to a switch inside the car and be able to change the value on the fly. A simple three pole switch would be all you need.
Wanna see what a 4EAT can shift like at full line pressure? Just disconnect the factory resistor and go for a ride. The Check engine light and the flashing ATF light will go away three or four starts after you plug it back together. Third gear braking will also return. This is NOT a long term solution.. it's just for reference purposes.
