AUSVX,
The process can be rather "painful" as one twists and turns the sender to attempt reinstallation unless one pays careful attention to how it came out. Yes, all is done through the panel you mention, after removing the cover of course! The easiest job I did was after using a little hand pump to empty the tank as much as possible, but the fumes can still get to you. Be certain to ventilate the work area fully.
AFTER RELIEVING FUEL PRESSURE (by disconnecting fuel pump electrical connector, starting the engine and running it until it stalls, then cranking an additional 5 sec, then OFF)
The FSM process is as follows:
1) Disconnect hoses and harness connector(done), and remove the fuel tank cap. (I've been successful removing the tank by placing a large screwdriver on one of the protrusions and lightly tapping with a dead blow hammer to unscrew it)
2) Remove bracket cover for installing each assembly bracket onto the tank inner. (This bracket clips down onto the mount to secure all pieces together and must be pried up at one edge to remove, straight up.)
3) Take out fuel meter unit LH (As you look at the tank)
4) Take out fuel meter unit RH.
As stated previously, be sure you observe the way the pieces come out so you may reinstall in exact reverse order.
I dismantled the senders from my '93 after her demise to figure out what was causing the flaky gauge operation. (aside from the saddle tank and jet-pump arrangement that always keeps fuel in the left side for the fuel pump. I used a multimeter to determine that one sender was erratic, showing resistance/open sporadically as I swung the float arm through it's arc. I dismantled the sender box to find the contact point was not making good connection. I installed a small washer on the shaft to force the contact against the rheostat and reassembled the box. Testing again I found it was now stable, and resistance changed in nice linear fashion as the float arm was moved.
Hope I haven't missed anything. Best of luck should you tackle this little job.
Glenn