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Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L
You dont have to yank the manifold off to get to the solenoid..... it takes some deft maneuvering but you can just remove the intake and get it from the back of the engine bay..... it takes patience though. That solenoid should be good but you can just jump 12V to the terminals while sucking on one of the ports to see if it allows airflow when jumped.
If your dash lights come on right before the stall you should suspect an alternator voltage issue or your ignition switch itself. Those two things can cause a stall AND light up your dash, so start there. Next time you drive you can wiggle your keys back and forth while cruising slowly and see if that makes it cut out...thats the easy way to tell if the switch contacts are faulty, but its not conclusive.
For the alternator voltage.... test it at the battery while you rev it and make sure its not over 14.9 volts or so. While driving you can also modify a cigarette lighter plug to connect a multimeter to, plug it in the lighter socket, then have somebody watch the readout while you drive.
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Thanks for the tips on testing this stuff out, I really appreciate it. Come to think of it, I did find a vacuum line on one of the solenoids under the manifold disconnected when I was poking around a few weeks ago (which I reconnected, of course). It looked like it may have been unplugged intentionally at some point, since it doesn't seem like something that would just come off on its own. I might look at that first. So those are open (allow air to flow through) with +12v applied, and closed otherwise, right?
And the ignition switch would make sense, since the first time it went out I was slowly turning into a bumpy HD parking lot. I've got a DMM here, I'll check the alt voltage out if the ignition key thing yields no results.