Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Without the relay, the Ignition switch, Inhibitor switch, and brake switch have to carry a current flow of about 30 Amps for about 1/2 second every time you hit the starter. This burns the contacts over time.
Fitting the relay removes this high current flow off these switches, so they only have to carry about 0.1 Amps to work the relay.
The recommended relay is the Bosch 30 Amp relay, used for headlights/horn, that is readily available at any Auto store.
Way to go. 
Harvey. |
As far as I am aware no one has examined the contacts involved and confirmed the above. Presuming this idea is fact, it would mean that one or more sets of contacts, have been damaged to the point whereby they are not closing properly and are of high resistance.
Fitting a slave relay which draws the minimum of current will work, but the contacts involved will remain faulty and could deteriorate further, so that they do not conduct at all. In which case the trouble will reoccur and will be final.
That is why both Beav and myself regard this as a band aid fix, rather than the best answer, which is to find the fault and fix it. At that point a slave relay could still be used as belt and braces, if desired.