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Originally Posted by longassname
I'm not sure that is exactly correct. I believe some people used a relay to send more current to the solenoid than the ignition key does to solve the problem but it doesn't necessarily follow that the ignition key is the problem.
Often times a great deal of the problem is the contact on the solenoid isn't very good. When you're stuck in a parking lot it never hurts to give that spade connection a jiggle and try to get it on real tight. Even better, remove the plastic and adjust the spade to actually fit on tightly.
None the less these starters do weird things when they start going bad. If you see your clock dim out when you turn the key and the car doesn't start that's not your ignition switch. That's basically a short through the starter and it sucks so much life out of the electrical system you'll register a voltage drop accross all other contact points even if they are relatively good.
If your clock doesn't dim start looking at your ignition switch.
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Nothing weird is involved only logic and electrical facts. This has all well and truly been gone over and sorted, as is fully recorded, including all aspects the senseless fitting of a slave relay. I am not about to go through it all again.
