most check engine codes at once record. yah!!
 

allright ive owned my svixer for almost a year now and its still running good ( aside from the ticking that there sometimes and not others). i can still eat any honda or v6 mustang around. my check engine light has been on the whole time so i decided to see if i was throwing any new codes. i have a total of 6 codes. i think at least 3 of them are new. here they are.
11: (new code)crank angle sensor. (what does this mean?)
22: knock sensor(right side) left side was recently replaced.
23: air flow meter
32: (new code)O2 sensor (right side)
37: (new code)O2 sensor (left side)
56: egr system.
What are the most important ones (im on a budget)? do you think any of these codes could have anything to do with the ticking from the right side of my engine? and i changed my water pump and timing belt all by myself (very proud thank you). do you think i could have triggered #11?
feedback would be much appreciated,thank you. oh and i have a cone air filter instead of the airbox could that effect #23. witch would effect 32 and 37 mabey?

Most important: Code 11, crank angle sensor. It read the angle of you engine crankshaft and uses that to calculate when to fire the spark plugs. If that goes your engine will not run.

Second: Code 23: MAF (Mass air flow sensor). Having this not in working condition will cause you engine to run poorly, as the amount of air coming in to the engine is not being correctly read by the computer. If it goes completely you engine will not run.

Chris is right.

With wrong signals from either of these two, the ECU may not have the timing and mixture right [optimal] If the mix is not right the O2 sensors will be seeing unburnt fuel and possibly setting codes.

So you need to attend to those two first, do a reset, run the car and if the O2 codes don't come back you are OK.

BTW, you should do a reset now [look up the How To section] and if your crank angle sensor comes up again, buy a new one. NOW:ninja:

Best of luck with it. Hopefully you won't need O2s

Joe:)

I just pulled codes and got 11 and 37. I reset it multiple times as per directions and both came right back up again. :o So you're not alone...

i tried to reset it by sticking the blue wires in the 1st and 2nd slot on the connector. the check engine light flashed 12 and my fans were turning on and off. it didnt clear any codes at all. ill disconnect my battery and touch the -and+ together for a couple minutes like on a normal car. and i kinda searched, but any info on changing a crank angle sensor. do you think its just a bad sensor.

ok i cleared my codes drove it at least 10-15 dollars. and im down to 1 code # 22 i think that was the knock sensor right? do you have to take off the intake manifold to change that. if so im going go ahead to polish mine. theres one hanging on the wall at motorsports warehouse that looks good.

I'm not certain if 22 is left or right, but the code chart in the How To section will tell you.

You will also find out how to change them without taking off the manifold. If you DO decide to take off the manifold, then be aware there are many small vacuum pipes under there, and it's easy as pie to damage one, so be careful how you work.

If 22 is the one near the front of the engine you are in luck as it is relatively easy to see and to get to. You only need to move the alternator temporarily while you replace it.

The one at the back is a SOB to see or to get a spanner on, but it is do-able.

Best of luck.

Joe:)

if you have a genuine knocking noise that could trigger the knock sensor noise and mean your engine is on the way out...I bet you don't though. You said ticking noise so I bet you either have ticking injectors which is normal or lifters which can happen when you are low on oil.

As SVXIstentialist was saying there are many hoses on the bottom side of the intake manifold which the fsm would tell you to remove to get to the knock sensors. Thankfully, at least, it would tell you to take the intake manifold off complete with the injector stacks, fuel lines, and vacuum lines. If you are timid are remove the plenum from the injector stacks you get into a nightmare. If you take it all off as one it is not so bad. The correct procedure is to unbolt the injector stacks from the block not the plenum from the injector stacks.

If you are new to turning wrenches on an svx or don't want to buy new gaskets you are probably better off finding the thread he mentioned to get instructions on getting at the sensors by removing the alternator instead of the manifold.

This is the page from the How-To section where "All is Revealed"

CODES


Joe;) :D

I just did my knock sensors this weekend.

It's definitely very doable from the front if you have skinny enough arms to get them under the manifold. To make it easiest, remove the alternator, and take off the bracket w/ the pulley that the AC compressor connects to so you can rotate it out of the way (note: the bolt closest to the driver's side fender is the only one you need to remove from the compressor itself, then there are three that hold the bracket on).

A set of click wrenches will come in very handy.

thanks for the help. you guys are always helpful. makes me proud to be a svx owner. this community might be as tight a the vw community (older vw's), and thats pretty tight. thats my other car. im sure there's alot people here who have one. seem to have alot in common.

So, did you get it replaced and codes gone, yeah?

Joe:)