T-belt idler pulley bearing squealing...
 

Ok,
I've removed both 'external' belts to prove to myself that the air-c belt and alternator belt idler pulleys aren't the cause of the mysterious "bearing squeal" on start up. I know it's a bearing but I don't know which one and I don't want to wait for the t-belt to shread when one of them decides it doesn't want to spin anymore.

It must be one of those four idlers pulleys because the tensioner pulley is less than a year old.

So.. I snooped around (haven't been here in quite a while) and found plenty on changing the t-belt. I'm skeptical of the crank pulley removal tricks, but I'll give it a 'whack' so to speak. I've already broken one of those Craftsman plastic strap wrenches. It'll go back tomorrow. It just doesn't seem like that big nut is going to budge easily.

My question is: Are those idler pulleys servicable or do they simply need to be replaced? I was quoted around 80-120 buck per pulley for the new ones. My plan is to check them out, find out which one is squealing and order the replacement. Naturally, they are not all the same and it'll take days to get the new one so I'll need to put the car back together again, because I can't be without my car for days.

Thanks all... this place is the best. I wish I could spend more time here like I used to.. but as they say.. life goes on.

Best,
Jeff

There's been a discussion about replacing idler pulley bearings, complete with aftermartket part numbers, but I can't recall if it was concerning accessory or T-belt pulleys. You might try searching "pulley bearing" (if you haven't already) and see what comes up. Good luck.

dcb

Frustrated!!
 

Well,
I guess it doesn't matter anyway. I can't get the damn crank pulley off anyway. I hammered on it like crazy and it won't budge without turning over the engine. I'm about to try the 'bump the starter' trick, but I don't want to risk it.

I'm about to punt and send it in to the dealer for another $500+ 'fix'. Arg! I'm sure they decide to replace all the idlers just to be safe. I've had the cover off three times since 100K miles for either leaks or something else.

I just don't know if a non-dealer (without the 'special tool') could do any better.

Why does everyone else seem to have no problems with this bolt?

we all use the starter trick. ;)

It isn't really as sketchy as it sounds. Go ahead and do it.

ah ha..
 

That's what I needed. I kick in the pants. When I get my car back tomorrow night (another story) I'll fire her up! I'll let you know if I flip the car... :)

:eek: aaaawwww You may want to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and start it once to get the fuel out first.:rolleyes: You don't want to buy a radiator or anything else I'm sure.:D Good luck and be safe.

Nope
 

I bought a tougher strap wrench.. that just slipped. I gave the starter one little punch, it make a small bang as the pipe 'tightened' against the hammer I had it resting on and that was enough for me. Nothing happened it didn't budge and I'm not trying it again. I don't want to rip the car apart.

I'm so frustrated. I'm being forced to take the car to someone I just don't trust anymore with my 'old' baby and spend lots of money. THe dealerships have a vested interest in getting my car back to the shop over and over. They've broken bolts off and not bothered to fix them. I just can't take it there anymore and yet I have no choice but to bring it to a dealer because of this friggin' 'special' tool.. and the fact that the previous slep probably over torqued it on.

Is there some way I can rent this tool from someone? I'm going to give a couple of local dealers a call to see if they'll let me borrow one or something.

I will take a picture of how I removed the pulley. Very safe and functional. All you need is a pair of Vice Grip Chain plyers, some 3/8" rubber tubing (trans cooler line works), and a breaker bar. I'll get the pics posted tonight. Maybe you can try this since the starter bump trick did'nt.

I was warned about the crank pulley bolt before I pulled my engine. Fortunately, mine was a piece of cake. I inserted a large screwdriver into a hole on the torque plate, wedged against engine and engine stand, and hit the bolt with an impact wrench....da...da...da...da...zzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Came right off.

As for in-car removal, has anyone tried putting a prybar (or other suitable instrument) between one of the torque plate bolts and the block through the timing port? I've always found a way to access the flywheel/torque plate when removing crank pulley bolts. Strap wrenches, of any design, tend to be an exercise in frustration with varying success. I won't do the starter thingy.....as it is, my friends say I have Tim Allen's garage....sure recipe for a trip to the emergency room.