Quick question about Crank Pulley Install...
 

My crank pulley decided to walk about a half inch forward out of the blue, so I ordered an replacement, and haven't driven the car for fear of possibly launching a high speed spinning projectile...;)

My question is about the replacement, can anyone tell me if it's more difficult than:

1. Breaking the bolt loose with a breaker bar.
2. Sliding off the old pulley.
3. Sliding on the new one and torquing it up.

It seems deceivingly straighforward. Thanks.

That's the idea. The pulley bolt can be pretty tight though. Using a 3 ft long breaker bar, I couldn't get it loose. I ended up using svxfiles suggestion. Use a breaker bar as an impact wrench. Put a 14-18" breaker bar on the bolt so that the bar is pointing straight up and then whack the bar with a ~2 lb hammer. Be ready for the breaker bar to spin pretty fast if the bolt comes loose.

Thank you sir. Luckily for me, Mr. Subafreak is just a phone call away if I really get stuck. Haha

Now I just have to decide if I want to keep the one piece (non-underdrive) from Motorsports on once it's installed, or use it temporarily. Seems as though the group can't come to a consensus as to wether or not the dampening effects lost by not having the stock pulley are damaging to the crank. :rolleyes: We shall see.

Not to reopen and old wound...er...topic, but thoughts are welcome.

I haven't a clue about any dampening problems with the one piece pulley. I missed that thread.

But I've always been a fan of the original well educated Engineers that came up with the pulley that's OEM. It's part of a well balanced system on a virtually bulletproof engine. :cool:

Just one guy's opinion. :)

The tranny?? They were drunk that day.

The tranny is an amazing feat of engineering considering it was designed in the late 80's and early 90's. The problem came in when they coupled the cooling for it to an engine that was meant to run at very high temperature compounded by the clogging issue.

Had they used a small radiator with its own fan for the transmission, it would be bulletproof. But, hindsight is 20/20. You can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs...

I agree. The entire problem with the transmission is only an oversight of coupling. Nothing inherently wrong with the unit itself. Heck,,, a well working and well adjusted unit is smooth as silk, even at full throttle.

I've been hit both ways with it. My original SVX bought in early 95: Transmission lasted 59k with easy going cruise style driving habits. However, the 92 is over 159k with no signs of problems... same style driving. Kind of a hit or miss.

I sincerely believe a bunch of the transmission problems came from 2 camps... 1 camp is the hard core drivers...Obvious concern there with even the most race proven equipment. If a person continuously slams force against an object... it's gonna break.

The other camp is a lack of knowledge where transmissions were needlessly replaced. I look back now at the 94 and wonder if the problem was merely a stuck solenoid. Ya never know.... I most certainly didn't have the knowledge I have now on the cars, and most service techs still don't. They never work on them.

I've been running the OEM-sized one-piece unit for over a year with no known issues, but you're right, some mighty bright folks maintain that there's a harmonic-balancer effect gained with the stock pulley (why else would they have designed it that way?), and I'm considering a switch back to stock when timing belt replacement time rolls around.

dcb

maybe i'm dumb, but how do i stop the crank from spinning trying to break loose the bolt ???

If you use the hammer method I described, there is no need to block the crank. If you just lean on the bolt with a breaker bar though, you'll need to block the crank somehow. 4eat guys have wedged a screwdriver in the starter ring teeth. Manual tranny guys can put the car in gear. You can also try to make a special tool that will hold the pulley itself with the four holes in the pulley.

Thanks, that will help when I get the new part, I decided not to try to tack weld the pieces together for a temp. fix because I didn't want to throw the crank out of balance.

easy pulley stop...
 

I just removed my pulley and swapped in three different used ones. A cheap and easy way to remove the pulley is to buy the chain style Vice Grip. My local Autozone had one.

Cut a 3/8 inch piece of rubber trans cooler line (or any thick rubber line). Use the rubber to protect the pulley as you wrap the Vice Grip chain around the Pulley and clamp it tight. Use a good 1/2" breaker bar with possibly a pipe on the end to serve as a fulcrum. You will have no problems removing or instaling the pulley. :D

Getting the pulley off once you unbolt it will be kinda tuff. Just be patient and shimmy it off. You might have some rust on the shaft but once you get the pulley moving you'll be good to go.

My Solution (be it ignorant or not)
 

I too struggled to loosen the nut on the pulley. Then my father-in-law suggests an old trick he saw somewhere or read somwhere, probably on this forum. Make a v-shaped notch in a 12" piece of 2x4. You might have to rip a chunk out of the other end. Set the square end on the member below the battery. Get an 18" or 24" bar and socket and put the socket on the nut and the handle in the notch. Get in the car and turn the key for a split second, and the crankshaft spins the nut off of it into the socket. Don't let the car start though. I almost crapped my pants. It really saved me alot of time. Just remember to keep the handle on the battery side or it'll probably blow through the hood.:D

I actually ended up locking a pipe wrench on the pulley and letting it rest against one of the brackets(i can't remember which off my head) while I used a 3' breaker bar with another 3' extension to break it.