transmission install
 

Anyone want to be my best friend and scan in the service manual pages for removing and installing a tranny?

anyone?

I'll give it a shot
 

I'll have to hook my scanner back up after about a 1.5 year rest...

I can also give you my own helpful? hints...

Where did you get yours rebuilt?

from alldatadiy.com
 

Hope this helps. Been looking around this site
quite a bit and there is all kinds of good stuff,
such as this. Let me know if you want me to Email you an HTML format of this.
___________________________

1994 Subaru SVX (AWD) L6-3300cc 3.3L DOHC

Top - Vehicle
Transmission and Drivetrain
.Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
..Service and Repair
...Transmission/Transaxle Removal and Installation


Transmission/Transaxle Removal and Installation

Position vehicle on hoist. Do not lift.
Disconnect hood damper, then open hood fully.
Disconnect battery ground cable, then remove throttle body cover.
Remove air intake boot, then engine hook under throttle body.
Remove pitching stopper and bracket. Disconnect transmission air vent hoses
from bracket.
Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
Transmission harness.
Oxygen sensors.
Vehicle speed sensor 2.
Transmission ground.
Disconnect PCV hose, then blow-by hose from crankcase to collector.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove lower starter mounting bolts.
Lower vehicle, then disconnect power supply terminal and magnet coil
connector.
Remove upper starter mounting bolts, then the starter.
Remove torque converter cover hole plug, then remove torque converter to drive
plate attaching bolts. Separate torque converter from drive plate.
Install engine support fixture No.927670000 or equivalent, then remove upper
right side transmission to engine bolts.
Remove fluid level gauge from transmission and front differential, then raise
and support vehicle.
Remove under cover, then oxygen sensor harness from clip.
Remove remove front exhaust pipes and rear catalyst converter, then the front
exhaust cover.
Remove propeller shaft to companion flange attaching bolts, then the center
bearing to body bolts. Remove propeller shaft from transmission.
Remove selector cable from selector lever assembly, then the selector cable
bracket from body.
Remove performance rod.
Remove front axle from transmission as follows:
Remove ball joint from knuckle arm of housing.
Remove stabilizer link from bracket, then the brake hose and ABS sensor
harness from start bracket.
Remove spring pin holding axle shaft into front differential drive shaft.
Remove axle shaft from transmission.
Disconnect transmission hoses from side of transmission, then remove lower
side transmission to engine attaching bolts.
Place transmission jack under transmission, then remove rear crossmember to
body bolts.
Remove transmission from vehicle. Move transmission and torque converter as a
unit away from engine
Reverse procedure to install.
Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC. Terms of Service

Yeah.. what he said...

Also..fill the torque converter with fluid before installing it to the tranny or you WILL blow out the seal that is in there and wreck the bushing also. It holds at least 1 qt, maybe more..

Other stuff:
1. I used a small rope hoist attached to the front of the engine instead of special tool # to keep the engine from tilting too much
2. Have some exhaust studs handy as you will probably break at least one of them off.
3. Use new gaskets in the exhaust system between the two down pipes and the main converter or it will leak for sure
4. I did it without removing the pipe with the cat and resonator, hood supports and stabilizer links, and brake line brackets
5. Don't use a pickle fork on the ball joints. Instead use a wedge or chisel to open up where the ball joint goes.

As I remember it, the exhaust removal was the worst part of all. Also, if it isn't going back in nicely, make sure the engine is at the right angle.

I'll be on Yahoo IM or in the chat room most of hte weekend if you need anything else. YIM handle = stevebsy

Good Luck!

Uhhh...using a chisel is also a no-no, too easy to deform the knuckle (although I admit to having to do this on other cars...) Easiest way is to just remove the three nuts holding the ball joint to the control arm.

Beav

Thanks for the help guys. I got the tranny on e-bay from Brian Steele - smallcar.com (the guy who is putting in 5 speeds) It is from a wreck and was factoy rebuilt/ installed by an oregon suby dealer and has 25k on the rebuild. The price was too good to pass up even though I was set on doing a 5 speed.
If I am brave/stupid enough to start it myself today I plan on taking digital pictures throughout the job (how else am I gonna remember how to put it back together?)

Anything else in the service manual (or experience) that wasn't in the alldata how-to?
Thanks

Oh yeah - Stevesby - you have done this yourself and are not suby trained, right? In your opinion, how much would you pay someone else to do it. Basically - what is the "not worth the trouble" price in your mind.

Hmmm
 

If you have access to a real hoist, I'd say do it yourself.

If you're going to do it in your own garage with only jack stands to hold the car...well let's just say I wouldn't be too overly enthusiastic about doing it again. Other than the exhaust bolts, it should take about 2-3 hours each for removal and reinstallation.

I had mine removed/reinstalled once after I installed it myself (and didn't fill the TC first, and blew the seal) I'll have to look for what I paid, but I think it was in the $200-300 range. Well worth it IMO

Well,
The exhaust came off fairly easy. Nothing broke - I am still in shock.
I have the intake, driveshaft, starter, torque converter bolts, and hoses and electrical stuff all off but am now stuck on the engine support part.
I am guessing the engine is gonna try to tilt forward and attack the radiator.
how did you attach a rope to stop this?

oh yeah - its in the garage on jackstands.
The lowest qoute I got for the installation was $400 from local shops. Every one of them said, "a subaru what? Is that like a legacy?" Aamco wouldnt put in someone elses tranny.

Yes you need something to keep the engine from tilting, which is what the special service tool thingy does.

I hooked a rope to the ceiling joist and then to the hook on the front of the engine. The factory tool bolts to the firewall and then to the top engine mount holes.

You could rig it up several ways, but the engine will tilt forward pretty hard after the tranny is disconnected. Most of the weight is forward of the mounts so it has a pretty good moment arm.

Thanks for the info
I ended up tying a rope to the dogbone and running it over the top of the engine to the lift ring on the alternator mount. The engine didn't seem to tilt forward at all.
The tranny is now out - I'm halfway there.
The hardest part was actually removing the tranny. Those mount bolts are really long and it was hard to slide the tranny back off of them. I was also stupid enough to use a regular 3 ton floorjack with wood stacked on it to hold up the tranny. It wasn't pretty when the tranny finally came loose.
So far I haven't broken anything yet.

Thanks for the tip on the 3 bolts for the balljoints, Beav. Worked like a charm.

My utmost respect goes out to anyone who has done this job.
I hope it goes in smoothly tomorrow.

Filling the torque converter - any tricks or do I just pour the ATF in the center util no more fits?

I'm Back!!!!
 

It's in.
What a great sense of accomplishment.
Shifts smoother then the old one ever did.

Other than scraped knuckles, the job went very smooth.
Anyone else attempting this job - If I can do it - you can too.

Re: I'm Back!!!!
 

Good to hear it went well! Now you know how the 5sp conversion will go when you have to do that someday...

RE: I'm Back !!!
 

Truely impressive. :D But then you're immortal. B.

I'm still beaming with pride.
Thanks again to all who helped with tips on how to do the install.
Once again this site saved me a pile of money.

Actually - the immortal moniker refers to my little red suby wagon. Despite many attempts (crossing rivers with water over the hood, catching air on off-road trails, etc...) the car will not die. If the svx were only as reliable as that wagon.