Crank Pulley Separated
 

My parents were down here in AZ visiting this last week, and they drove my SVX a couple days ago. When I came home from school, I went to move my car into the garage and noticed I had no power steering and a few of my dash lights were illuminated. I opened the hood and both accessory belts were in pieces. So I went out and bought new belts and when I went to install them today, I noticed the crank pulley started separating:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/IMG_1372.JPG

Subaruparts.com lists the crank pulley for $142.52 (part #: 12305AA141) but after some reading on this forum I found that Dayle with Motorsports Warehouse offers a one-piece crank pulley for $140 (and he is in Tucson, which I am close enough to drive to, so I could avoid shipping costs). http://svx-motorsport-accessories.st...svxlicrpu.html

Since the prices are essentially identical, it seems to me I would be better off going with the single piece pulley so as to avoid it potentially separating again. Has anyone gone this route, and if so, do you have any input?

Thanks

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

one piece light weight pulley is the better option, but not to step on motor sport, but check ebay they usually have cheaper options, and I believe any wrx or sti and probably legacy pulley will work.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

I replaced mine from a legacy with a EJ25 engine, it's slightly heavier than stock.
I was advised by a very well respected company near me who build Subaru motorsport engines for track and rallying all EJ20, 22, 25 pulleys will fit no problem. They did however say to avoid lightweight under gear type pulleys as they wreck the pumps and alternator with the higher RPM's.

I wouldn't waste the money on a new one, you can buy 2 or 3 used ones for the price of a new one and I have heard the tracks on some of the cheaper one peice ones wreck the belts quite quickly.

If you can't get the bolt undone get a long breaker bar with the socket on the crack bolt and wedge it horizontal across the driverside (I presume yours is left hand drive) in front of the battery and very quickly flick the starter (you can isolate the ignition if you want but I've never known or had an engine start doing it), it may take 2 or 3 goes to loosen it. There is a how too somewhere on here about locking out the transmission and torque setting for tightening up the bolt after and adjusting pulleys if your not sure.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

If time isn't a factor head to your regional forum on nasioc.com and post up a wanted for a used pulley. You can usually get them for under $50 from someone who went with a one piece. When you get it installed just paint mark it on both sides of the dampener and you'll be able to detect any slippage.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

I'm not very sure I want to try breaking it loose with the starter idea...is there no other solution to breaking that nut loose? Obviously the crankshaft is just rotating when I turn the nut.

I'll probably run out and grab some PB blaster and a strap wrench.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

If it has seperated, the strap wrench won't hold it.
I'd do the starter way.

Harvey.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

The other way is to put a screw drive a heavy duty one or bar in the slot at the rear of the motor where out connects to the Trans to stop the crank from moving then a large breaker bar to the nut on the pulley

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

The starter is the only way to go! Rest the breaker bar in a good spot and cushion the end to protect the fender area.
You can get it finished win less time than it takes to try to find a place to hold where it connects to the transmission.

A bit frightening the first time, but it is the way it is done by most dealerships.

Keith:cool:

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

I will be giving the starter trick a try tonight after I'm out of class.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Ok, so I'm falling behind somewhat on getting things removed, but it's kind of difficult when I work all morning and go to school all night.

I'm going to remove the radiator before I even attempt getting the pulley off. My teacher offered to let me use a puller to get the crank pulley off, so I'm curious if anyone knows what size bolts will thread into the 4 small holes in the pulley?

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

You won't need a puller, it will slide off without too much effort.

Harvey.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

You do not need to remove the radiator and as Harvey said it will come straight off or with a light tap with a hammer.

Save yourself some work and more beer time :-)

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Ok great.

...and technically I've still got a little less than a month before I can enjoy beer time...but we'll just pretend no one knows that ;)

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

The rad doesn't need to come out, but since this is your first time, it will make it much easier if you remove the fans though. It is just the 4x10mm bolts at the top (2 each fan) and the electrical connector on each.

You may want to then tape a piece of cardboard to the inside of the radiator, just incase you slip with a wrench.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

+1 wedge the flywheel at the bottom of the bell housing and use a breaker bar... starter method is shade tree and dangerous


Tom