SVX can't stay running
 

I'm going to start by saying We all Love the way this funny window-ed car performs!

Unfortunetly my car is not. A couple of months ago my OEM rad cracked and i replaced with a PWR rad. I think everything is going smoothly with that. except sometimes I can smell the sweet, pugnate scent of tranny fluid. (?)

Anyways, that's not my problem. two nights ago drove the car for a half hour, (everything A-O.K.) parked it watched movie. after that my SVX wouldn't start (not even a starter tick) Nice person offered a boost, turned over right away, ran fine untill the jumpers came off, then stoppped. This was at midnite and my boogers were freezing in my nose, so I left it of the night.:(

Friend brings me back the next day, boost it, it runs well by itself for about ten mins, so I attempt the half hour drive home. while driving all of the "dummy" lights were on(albiet quite dim) for about ten mins then went off. All off, except the "check engine" which stayed on.:confused:

Three(count em) blocks from my home, the engine has a mind of it's own and is reving(tach and speedo gauges dancing like their on some kind of rave drug:p ) and some kind of wierd ticking sound, which I couldn't localize because the car stalled agian. one more boost to get it to my driveway then parked.

I love my car, but for the amount of money I spend in repairs, I think I can afford to lease an all new tundra:eek:

If anyone could offer suggestions, that would be greatly appreciated.
I have some tools, but no hoist or food-a-rac-a-cycle or anything like that....

I'd venture that your alternator is shot; probably need a new battery, too.

dcb

I did put the volt meter to the alt. and it was reading 13.9. I dunno someone told me that is not to worry. maybe I should?

I think you have major charging system issues (alternator is shot and new battery). Once you've replaced one or both of those and the ticking/poor driving problem doesn't go away, check out your vacuum lines and MAF.

Before you spend money you should try and find out exactly what is the problem. You have done a voltage test on the alternator and all would appear OK. Even so there could be a rectifier fault.

What you have reported could be caused by poor battery connections, or an internal battery fault. The interesting thing is that boost connections put things right. Exactly where did you connect the jumper leads? This could be a clue as to whether there are existing bad connections. Put your thinking cap on. ;)

I had an alternator fail on me the exact same way. 'twas the voltage regulator.

well thats actually not a good charging spec for a dead battery it should be charging in the 14.6 volt range... but before you can condem the alternator you need to replace that battery because it is not holding a charge