Cold Start issues...
 

Let me start off by saying... I HATE Electrical issues....

Anyway maybe one of you guys (or gals) can help me out...

On FrankenWedge (My EG33 Swapped XT6), it is nearly IMPOSSIABLE to start when it's cold....during the summer months it starts pretty good, but once it gets cooler, it will hardly start, I have to crank on it forever, and play with the gas pedal to ever get it to start...once it's running it starts up fine.

I've assumed it was the CTS for the ECU...but I replaced it with one out of my parts engine, to the same results (I suppose it could have been bad too:rolleyes:)

But is there anything else I should look at?

I have no ways to check code on it, as I don't have a CEL hooked up....

..So any ideals?

Thanks,
Huck

How well does it idle once it gets going?

You play with the gas pedal to get it going...?! These are EFI, not carbureted, I don't think that will do anything...:rolleyes:

I am having the same problem with my EG33 powered Porsche 911. When it's cold, it won't start without some throttle and even then it takes some time. Once the car starts, it idles and runs fine (although sometimes the idle is a little high until it warms up).

If the engine is warn, it starts up right away with no throttle and no problems. I have checked the ECU for codes and all I get is CODE 55 EGR temp sensor or circuit.

Craig,
It idels fine once it's started, idels up a bit till it's warmed up, then drops to normal idle, just like it's suppose too.

And I KNOW it's a FI car, as I've been tinkering with cars since before you were born, and I KNOW you are not supposed to give a FI car throttle when starting....BUT since that is the ONLY way I can get the beast to start, I imput that into my quarry, so anyone that tryed to help would have all the info....it will NOT start at all if I don't play with the throttle while tring to start it when it's cold, but no throttle is required once it's been warmed up to start it....hope that clears it up.

Basically I have to nearly flood it to get it to fire up when it's cold, but like Kcpaz said, it runs perfect once it's started up, including the "Fast Idel" untill it's warmed up....and since both his and mine are "transplanted" EG33's, I'm leaning toward something in the wiring that we both missed...

Put in some 5w-30. The main issue with cold starts is that folks that have 10w-40 oil in, it gets so thick and viscous that it has higher resistance for the crank shaft to move through. At least that's been my experience. I run 5w-30 full synthetic in the winter, 10w-30 full synthetic in teh summer. It was 8 degrees this morning when i left for work, and my car cranked twice, at full speed, fired, and started.

I run 5w-30 in it, this is not the problem.
The engine cranks over fine.....but doen't seem to get fuel, unless I give it throttle.

Huck

This is a hard one to call, particularly without any codes to read.

As it starts OK when warmed up, and runs OK when started, then it might be wise to look for something temperature related.

As a first port of call maybe you could recheck what voltage the TPS is set at. It just might make a little difference to set a bit high, maybe 5.1V?

Other things might be your MAF connections. The voltage going to the ECU is delivered by the square box on top of the maf. When these [mafs] degrade it is often poor connection inside this box that causes bad or intermittent signal. This circuit box may well work OK when warm, but metal shrinkage when cold may be giving "bad" cold voltages from a dodgy connection, and the computer won't fire in the fuel.

You could check this by swapping in a good unit, and see if it fires when cold.

You might also check connections to the slow running jets on the manifold to make sure they are OK.

Joe

Thanks Joe,
I'll double check those connections the next time I try to start it up...
Might even swap out the MAF from my SVX into it to see if that helps...

Did you check the throttle? When i was doing some work and poking around on mine, it had a bit of sludge built up around the throttle plate, so that at idle, it really didn't get the air it should have.

Hmmph, I'm running 20-50w oil and my car turned over yesterday in like 20 deg weather...

Huck, it's probably worth getting a small lamp in place next to the ECU wired up to the "CEL" Pins, it doesn't even need to be on the dash, just next to the ECU where ever it is...


How do you have the fuel pump wired? Is it still run by the XT6 ecu?

I really don't see that it would make a difference, but the SVX doesn't control it's fuel pump with a simple on/off signal. It sends a control signal to the FP Modulator and uses a resistor back there to control the pump. Again this is just a long shot, but since Kcpaz is having the same trouble, I'm guessing you both have this in common????

KC, How do you have the fuel pump wired?

Huck, also just to clarify.... You replaced the 2 wire CTS, not the single wire CTS???

My teal got to where it positively would not fire with the engine cold (at around 32 degrees out) unless I held the gas to the floor while starting. No troubles otherwise. A new coolant temp sensor cured this completely.

dcb

Here's my 2cents worth from having put an FI engine where it never should have been :) (5.0 GT motor into a '74 'Stang)

In the SVX, is there a fuel check valve? One that would keep the fuel from running back to the tank? Could you try turning the key on, then letting it sit there building pressure before trying it? I'd have to agree with Hocrest on this, if the SVX drives the fuel pump differently than the XT, then you may need to set the pump up the same way.

Remember, heat expands, cold contracts. There's a slim chance that you have a wire with an internal break. Those can be MADDENING to locate.

Check all your interfaces, where new, meets old, just for peace of mind.

For the CEL you could wire it into the seat belt light, like I did with my 'Stang. That was the only idiot light I could spare. Gotta love full instrumentation.

My SVX has the EXACT same issue. I will monitor this thread.