AT oil filter
 

Hi all,


My SVX was first reg 06/92 and is UK spec, I cannot see any sign of an upgrade AT oil filter kit on it, these being the first of the SVX's is it true they did a recall and fitted them FOC? As mine is due to go in for it's 90k service I want to challenge Subaru or my local dealer at least, and get one fitted (if needed) and be armed with the facts.....

can anyone shed some light please?

John:)

Hi John

I can't help with Subaru recall information. The SVX was never sold here.
Maybe some other members will know if there was a recall, and if the auxiliary filter was meant to be fitted free.

Phil? Do you know?

This following link is from Earthworm's SVXipedia, great site:

http://svx-iw.com/svxiw/article/?article=35

[Thanks David]

It gives the Subaru info on HOW it should be fitted. Does not mention if it should be done free, or by recall.

Hope this helps,

Joe:)

Thanks Joe,

My query is formed from an article on the subarusvx web site, www.subarusvx.com/faq/transmission.html ....is it something that was just for the US or a world wide issue:confused: .....just want to keep my mota running, it's nothing to do with me been a Yorkshire man and wanting 'owt for nowt'::p :D

John

This is an interesting topic, but I will not become involved in any argument which may follow.

A reputable organisation here, (Eastern Transmission Specialists) when they fitted a cooler for me, advised against a filter. Obviously they would have increased their profit by doing so and I accepted their word.

They told me that they had repaired many Subaru transmissions which had failed solely due to a blocked filter. What is more they removed filters by way of a safe guard, rather than fitted them. Take it or leave it. ;)

Not sure if you are asking me or the other Phil. I don't know the answer but I suspect the recall may have been a US thing. Remember their transmission is different to ours.
I was advised against a filter by Levelten.

Phil.

That all is interesting advice.

My Plum did not have one.

Maybe the secret is in doing a good flush, and making sure the turbolator in the liquid/liquid oil cooler in the rad does not get blocked?

Joe

I was thinking of you Phil.

I know you were close to one of the main dealers in London, and you might be clued up on English recalls.

:)

Thanks Guy's

Your comments and time appreciated, I think from the consensus I will leave 'well alone'. I'm not going to tempt fate by saying I've not had any problems yet, I'm sure you can hear what I'm not saying!.;) but you read so many posts relating to auto boxes giving up at my sort of mileage, from not doing one thing or the other.

I take it an oil cooler would be the way to go though?, Scotland's no longer the frozen north:rolleyes: and I do notice my auto box is sluggish when hot.

thanks,

John:)

Interesting Phil,

I have not been game to raise this issue before, because of the anticipated outburst from the many who insist on a filter. The fitting of a cooler was also discussed with Eastern Transmission and they did not think it necessary, unless I was involved with towing. However they accepted that it could be a good belt and braces mod. They say that many Taxi cabs of all makes, involved in city stop start stuff, have taken to this.

They neatly fitted a flat cooler, adjacent to the radiator and it is invisible. On their advice the original is no longer in circuit. That happened six odd years ago. :)

Cheers, Trevor. ;)

It's interesting you say that Trevor, that they took the OEM cooler out of the equation.

Many years ago there were regular discussions about this. The early OEM oil coolers in the corner of the rad had metal "fingers" installed in the intake. Their purpose was to act as a flow disrupter, a turbulator. The idea, a sound idea in fluid dynamics terms, was to create turbulence in the flow of hot oil into the cooler. This was intended to negate the surface drag effect, which left cooler oil clinging to the metal surfaces with the hotter oil flow passing quickly through the centre, and not cooling as it should, thus decreasing cooling efficiency.

What happened was the clutch material fibres tended to cling and build up on these "fingers" over time. With enough gunge sticking there, and no additional filter taking the gunge away, flow was seriously restricted to the cooler, allowing the gearbox to overheat and eventually burn out.

Later radiators did not have the turbulator fingers after the problem was understood.

By giving you a new cooler, and cutting out the OEM one in the rad, your transmission guys ensured that any material clinging in the original cooler could not be dislodged at an oil change and make it's way to block passages in the transmission.

A good solution, once your new slimline cooler is up to the job of keeping things cool.

Joe:)

Joe thanks, But I was quite aware of all this, but did not mention it because it has become such common knowledge.

Filters.
 

The early models that had clutch linings that flaked off, were the ones that needed the filter, to stop the clogging problem, that Joe says. The other problem with auto filters is that people fit very fine filters, thinking it will keep the oil clean. unfortunately the fine filter restricts the flow of ATF to the box, so failure follows.

The type of filter that an auto uses is like fly screen wire, very course. It is not to clean the oil, just to remove the lining bits.

The additional cooler, is really needed on the US model with its high final drive ratio, that is driven around town it D,:rolleyes: causing the converter to work hard, producing excess heat. If you live where it is cold, you don't need the extra cooler, but you do need the water cooled original one, to maintain the auto temperature, at a workable temp.

Harvey.;)

Harvey, I am completely brassed of with your continual efforts to tell those who Know more than you do, how to suck eggs. Go polish your ego some place else. :mad:

Trevor

I don't think that is fair comment on Harvey's post. Uncalled for.

The original poster, John, who lives in Scotland, John does not seem to know all this, and lives in what for most years is a pretty cold place.

So Harvey's point about the original OEM cooler being better for cold areas is entirely valid IMO.

I know there's no love lost, but decorum comes first on this forum.

Joe

Joe,

I do agree that I was little quick on the trigger and apologise.

Sincerely, Trevor.