what was this and how
 

and how important is it to my car running right. i dropped the steering column, and this fell out.
also on a side note, dropping the column was a waste of time all it succeded in was crushing my nuts when i undid the last nut, and it didn't move, or provide any additional access to the bolt i couldn't get out and i had to bolt it back in to get the bolt out, however removing the seat made this much easier. so win lose oh well needed to get that out.
any way this is the pic of what i broke
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/DSCF0067.jpg

Jeff, I dunno what that relay is, but watch the "jewels" when you pull that last bolt on the column. Especially if the wheel is off.
I caught a Taurus column the exact same way... sang soprano for a couple hours!
(who knew you had to remove the WHOLE dasboard to do a heater core?)

lol, which year Taurus? My 99 isn't very fun for under-dash stuff.

It was a '95 wagon, it finally succumbed to the infamous tranny issues @ 198k mi

Ah the wonderful AXOD tranny...and the headgaskets. My parents '94 wagon (beast of a car, 3.8L...) blew the gaskets (which we only got re-imbursed for when we heard a week later they were defective and complained), and then lunched the tranny at around 140K miles.

[/hijack]:D

as funny as that post was...
I have no idea what you have there looks like it says "dude" on the side?

and the benefit of removing the column is to make it easier to fab up/install the pedals... if you don't you'll end up doin it like I did, ready:

-remove bolt holding the pedal cage aligned
-twist cage 90 - 180 degrees
-push gas pedal end over the column
-move the wires
-no the other wires
-rotate cage back to aligned position
-move the wire again
-okay push booster in no that the cage is clear
-pull booster through
-attack two bolts to booster
-ohh wait the cage can't tighten down with the studs in the way
-remove alignment bolt again swing it down
-tighten the booster
-okay, move the wire again
-swing the pedal cage back up
guesstimate the position of the hole to be drilled, mark it.
-unbolt the booster
-push the booster out a bit
-get out and pull the booster out a bit more
-get back in the car
-slide the booster out as you pull the pedal cage off the rest of the studs
-twist the cage
-MOVE THE WIRES AGAIN?!?!?
-rotate the cage around the column
-twist the cage again and pull the cage out the rest of the way
-$@#T?!? NOW WHAGT THE EFF IS IT CAUGHT ON>!>!>>
-drill the hole for the stud
-repair broken window

...pretty much repeat that to get it in and then a bunch more times for cutting and welding

with the column out of the way you pretty much could just put it up where it needs to be and go to town

come to think of it, I had to do some cutting before I even got to that point...

+3 more times

i havent had to cut anything yet, i'm just hoping that circut board isn't that important

If it says "Guide" on it, I'd assume a headlight relay of some sort?

i'm drawing a blank on what the main relay looks like... but if there are no wires in the area it came from, you shoulod be in good shape. may have just been from an old alram system.

Does you car have an alarm system, I had to remove mine until after the swap

....btw don't cut the wire that is spliced in to the starter, it DOES belong there :rolleyes: I thought it went to the auto starter

lol, my alarm is already disabled, i'm just gonna have to try to start the car and find out, hopefully nothing big

We broke that same thing when we were installing the 5-speed in the racer. I'm not sure what it is, but I grabbed another out of the junkyard. I looked it up in the FSM, and I seem to recall that it was needed, and we have no headlights or other heavy weight extras....

:D:D:D that is so funny heheh

its the blinker relay... not too important until you need to use blinkers

Tom

Show off :ninja: