Ignition switch pics
 

Well I finally got tired of fighting the ignition switch's intermittent start problem and didn't feel like messing with the relay mod to comphensate for the cruise control inhibitor relay issue, so I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. It took a couple of hours, which was longer than I had expected, but not too bad considering I had to mess with the remote start wiring too.

Anyways, here are some pics of the switch assembly and the allen head bolt, as well as the OEM security bolt. I don't recall ordering the security bolts, but they were on the invoice and didn't cost much so I wasn't going to fight it. You can see where the head is designed to twist off at the desired torque and then you have a problem if you ever want to get it off again. For anyone needing to replace or tighten them, I would suggest replacing them with the allen head bolts like I did.

KuoH

http://members.aol.com/kuoh/ign1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/kuoh/ign2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/kuoh/ign3.jpg
http://members.aol.com/kuoh/ign4.jpg

And here is likely the problem. The back plate of the ignition switch is held on in 3 places by the indentions in the casing. In the first picture, there is a good size gap between the brown back plate and the casing, probably because the plastic under the indention is broken. The second pic shows the other side, which is still firmly in place with no gap. The START contact is likely on the side where the plate is loose. I suspect that if I found a way to keep the back plate flush with the casing, the intermittent start problems would go away, but alas I didn't discover it until after installing the new one. Anyways, I hope this helps other members here.

KuoH

http://members.aol.com/kuoh/ign5.jpg
http://members.aol.com/kuoh/ign6.jpg

Thanks, great description and pics. You by chance have the part # for the switch handy?

I don't know if it's the same part for all years, but this is the one for my 92.

83131PA000

KuoH

Can you please give directions on how to install it step by step? Thanks!

Well there's not that much to describe, just a lot of screws and contorting to get under the dash. First, pop out the coin holder, parking lights and mirror switch assemblies and disconnect. Remove the two screws that are now revealed and you should be able to pull down the front lip of the lower covering and remove it, after disconnecting the wiper position switch and light. Next, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the lower metal plate. Then remove all the screws in the lower halves of the two steering colump covers, making note of which screws came from which holes, some are different. Finally, remove the 3 screws holding the last metal plate and you should now have complete access to the ignition switch area. Now you just have to figure out how to unscrew the security bolts. Mine had already worked loose a long time ago and I replaced them with the allen head bolts as shown in one of the pics, so it was a cinch to remove and reinstall this time. That should be about as much detail as anyone would need.

I hope you're happy now, because any thief can disassemble your steering column now. ;)

KuoH

Hey, wanna submit that on the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com/

(I just added a new feature to the SVXipedia)

If the security bolts were not loose, how do you think they could be taken out? Just wondered before I give it a try. :confused: :confused: :)

Mine were loose, and rather than take them out and replace with normal, I was stupid and tightened them up :confused: :o

When the head breaks off it leaves a rough surface. I used a screwdriver and a scratch awl to "get a hold" of little bumps and rotate it that way... Something like a pencil eraser may also be able to get a bit of grip and spin them if they are already loose???

So what good are security bolts if they're always loose???

The proper way is to drill them and use an e-z-out. Personally, I use a LH drill bit, they usually will jiggle and snag the bolt loose, sometimes even backing them completely out.

I was starting to have heat-soak starter problems so I pulled my ignition switch today. This tutorial was a great help, many thanks to kuoh!

When I was taking the last cover off the bottom of the steering column one of the ignition switch security bolts fell out on the floor and the other bolt was being held by about 2 threads! Looking closer it seems that someone else before had tried to tighten them (or take them out) and had sheared off the heads. Luckily both were very easy to remove.

I picked up 2 replacement allen-head bolts at the hardware store. For anyone else who is looking for these replacements they are 8-1.25 metric bolts with about .75" grip length. The heads of my bolts wouldn't quite fit down in the recessed hole on the ignition switch. So I ground off a little metal around the outside of the heads with the grinder. I see that kuoh didn't do this and left the heads riding on top of the ignition switch housing. It probably works fine either way, I'm just a nit-picking engineer about these things. :rolleyes:

My switch section on the back of the housing was also loose as shown on kuoh's pictures. However nothing seemed to be broken on mine. So I squirted some electrical contact cleaner through the opening and worked the switch several times. Then I restaked the 3 corners to tighten up the assembly. Hopefully this will last another 126K miles.

I hope this solves my "heat-soak" problem. Thanks for everyone's help on this forum, it's an outstanding resource for keeping our great cars running great.

- Jim

Nope, I had started to remove it before I remembered to take pictures. The heads I got were a tight fit, but I got them seated fully using a ratchet and the appropriate allen socket adapter.

If your switch is separating, eventually it will begin to give you intermittent start problems, it's just a matter of wear rate and time. Good luck.

KuoH

Excellent job KouH. This is something I've been meaning to tackle.

Doug

Wanted to Resurrect this
 

Had a question about removing the security bolts...I can only notice it looks like a small crescent wrench would remove these from the side view of the bolts...How does the end look? It's not a torx fitting with security nipple on it is it? I haven't taken mine apart yet to see it, but assuming its tightened down I want to have the right tool to loosen them.

Also, can we put this thread on the How-To Documents or something? This is very helpful.

Thanks