Very rough running
 

HELP!!!!!! My car sounds like it only has four cylinders working
there is a regular beating sound coming from the back box. The plugs are only 3 weeks old (NGK PFR6G-11) the info on the net said do not gap so i did not gap! I have taken off the coil packs and found that one of them has both conductors fully exposed at the base where the wires join the coil pack, could there be any arching across these two points,would that explain the rough idle. Do svx`s lose pistons? The coil packs have never been changed (car registered 1992) I am open to any advice.
If I need new coils, any idea where to get them from. i repeat HELP!!!!!! :(

Advice from afar
 

The two wires are part of the low tension circuit and provided the bare parts are not touching, or could touch, there should be no problem.

The primary winding connected to the two wires, within the coil, should measure between 0.68 -- 0.83 ohms.

To fully test the coil install a good spark plug in the coil and fix the plug body to the engine so as to complete the HT circuit, start the car and check for a spark at the electrodes. The car will not mind running on five for a short time. This is simple commonly used method but as a safe guard I have checked the official manuals and find it confirmed as an accepted method.

Best of luck from down here, Trevor :)

ROUGH RUNNING REPLY!!!!!!
 

Hi Trevor thanksv for the advice I found that one of my coil packs would not spark when I cranked the engine! is it usaual for one coil to go? I used a meter on the coils and found them all up to spec! is it posible for the secondry coil go. I have ordred two new coils and I will fit them asap should I have ordred the ignition pack
as well.

Reply No. 2.
 

The secondary is the most likely winding to fail as it is of very fine wire. There is also a forward facing diode within the coil and in the secondary circuit which is also vulnerable. This diode makes it difficult to check the secondary resistance and that is the reason I suggested a practical spark test.

The igniter unit is more electrically robust than the coils and does not usually give trouble. The coils also tend to be subject to mechanical/electrical damage because of the need to remove them during plug replacement. It is common for a single coil to give trouble because of this.

Thanks for the help Trevor.

Chris, I didn't jump in here because I was thinking " MAF sensor"

But then I thought, new plugs only in three weeks, something must have happened at the install. Trevor pinned it down with his usual perspicacity.

Right Trevor, consider yourself an honorary European techie. In fact, you can be an honorary Brit as well, but being from NZ, only till the World Cup kicks off!!:D :D

Joe:rolleyes:

Joe we all drive on the correct side of the road now don't we :D What is more we don't have tired tyres and our mud guards can't fly and wheels have a centre and rims are rims and lug nuts went out with split rims so we have wheel nuts and the earth is a grand ground and I have to scuttle now as I do have one, etc. etc. :)

My baby is back to normal !!!
 

Thank you Trevor and every one else who offered advice!after one nwew coil pack and a good look at some badly gaped plugs a new air filter full induction system clean and a tank of opti plus my car sounds like it should and goes like it should.The engine sounds good at the moment,just a little bottom end rattle but it has 143000 on the clock, is there anything that the cars engine will needto help it in its doteage.:D