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-   -   Need a tail shaft or advise (https://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28971)

Dessertrunner 10-15-2005 02:17 PM

Need a tail shaft or advise
 
Ayone got some advise on were I can get a SVX tail shaft rebuilt or find a second hand one. All the wreakers don't have any at this time and mine 1 uni that has seized.
Tony

Chris_8472 10-26-2005 06:38 AM

Have you checked out Brookvale Parts Plus? They Import alot of SVX's

(02) 8788 8888

Dessertrunner 10-26-2005 10:29 PM

Chris I did and didn't do any good yet. I am looking at having mine rebuilt. In the short term I am going to cheat and use the front off a different Subaru but no back setion to the diff and lock the diff lock with the fuse. Should prove interesting to see if I get away with it. It is killing me not having it to drive. Thanks.
Tony

down under 11-01-2005 11:22 PM

any luck yet
 
mine is at cracking noises stage on intial accleration but no problem on move stage i am thinking of getting one made up so if i get it worked out i will post info Adelaide is a great place to find wierd people who can do anything you need i think there is a guy local that will fabricate one up without to much stress and make it last.

Dessertrunner 11-02-2005 12:53 AM

Down Under,
I have a company in Sydney that is going to rebuild it for me. A new one from Subaru was $1,800 so I gave that a miss. If yours is binding it would be smart to pull it out and see if you can spray WD40 into it then grease. Mine cracked. It sholud be back and fitted with replaciable uni's so life will be easier from here on in. You need to watch out for the CV joint as it may give trouble as well. When it is back I will get you the companies name that did the job. New yokes etc they say cost $700. Still a lot of money but if I can repair it from now on in it will be worth it.
Tony

down under 11-02-2005 10:00 PM

will pull it out
 
Thanks for tips i will pull it out. I like the idea of replacable uni's i must admit life would be easier. I must be getting to the end of the problem cycle soon and am looking forward to a trouble free stretch for awhile i hope!
I am under constant pressure from she who shall be obeyed to move it on to another home but i havnt grown out of it yet. She doesnt mind the race car or the boat but hates the true love [SVX] arent woman sweet. All the SVX issues havnt helped to endear her to it i suppose. I cannot think of much else that can go wrong. G/Box, starter motor, radiator, motor, brake rotors, wheel bearings, sunvisor, rear view mirror, etc etc now drive shaft what a wonderful experience NOT!!! :D Lucky they are a car that you love or hate and i still love. CV's are in good nick as are axles luckily i hope but will check again. New exhaust going on next week [noise] cant see the point of a quite sports car so upping the decebales a little bit and the diamater with some freer flowing cats and a bit of a note not to much but a little to make me feel like a boy again!!! Will keep the old one just incase i get sick of the noise later. Only part that pisses me of is i like the tips on it but they are to restrictive and small for the new system. Oh well cant have everything. Have you kept your brake rotors standard? My race mechanic keeps telling me it isnt the rotors that cause the warping it is the pads and we are looking for similiar pads to race car to find out i hope he is right as the pads i use in race car make a huge amount of difference to it with no fade or lock ups but we have never had rotor warp issues with it as i have had with SVX so am interested to find out others views on this matter???? :confused:

Dessertrunner 11-03-2005 12:22 AM

Down Under
You need to check the Altenator and make sure the bearings etc are good cheaper to check then to fix later. As regards your new exhaust I would forget the cats as far as I know they never test for exhaust in our part of the world so why add a further restriction. Even if they did you can swap for rego. My opinion on break rotors is a bit strange as I say never machine them even when they have groves. Over the years I have had major fights with machanics about this. My reasoning is that the pads will settle in in the first 1,000 k and the worst you will get my be some noise if they collect dirt. The other point why remove the grove when it will be back next pad change. When I want to be stupid I just say the area of the groves increases the contact area for the barke pads (techenialy true). The other thing is I don't change them if they worp as they will settle back over time. My front ones have worped a couple of times now and they are spinning straight at this time. Like I said I handle things different I would never do more then 100,000 with out replacing the temostate.
The tail shaft is back tmorrow rebuilt by Hardy Spicer in Sydney so I will let you know.
Tony


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