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-   -   Swaybar end link adjust (https://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37079)

Tiamat-red 01-21-2007 06:11 PM

Swaybar end link adjust
 
With the slightly adjustable endlinks on the stock front swaybar does it matter
where they are?
Assuming I want my car to go straight and is in good alignment is there a difference if they are both up, or down in the slots?

Tiamat-red 01-22-2007 05:38 AM

Anyone?
Bueller.....bueller?

svxfiles 01-22-2007 08:19 AM

Unless you are setting the car up for only left or right turns, then adjust where there is no preload.

Tiamat-red 01-22-2007 08:43 AM

Right, but would it matter if they were both all the way up, or all the way down?
I assume if they are both in the same spot, and everything else is equal in the suspension then it wouldn't.
I assume then that the adjustability is in case the left and right suspension AREN'T equal.
So I guess I answered my own question.
Or rather I assume I did. :rolleyes:

Tiamat-red 01-22-2007 08:57 AM

Since my front end is too low to get on my ramps could I do it just by turning the wheels and unbolting both sides, then bolting them back wherever they "fall"?

Suby Fan 01-22-2007 09:26 AM

no adjusting your sway bars will not adjust your ride hight

svxfiles 01-22-2007 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiamat-red
Since my front end is too low to get on my ramps could I do it just by turning the wheels and unbolting both sides, then bolting them back wherever they "fall"?

Or you could put a 2X12 in front of the ramp.;)
But yea, loosen them, and tighten where they fall.:)
Bolt them up when the wheels are strait just to be safe.

Tiamat-red 01-22-2007 07:49 PM

Ok sounds good. I just hope I can get my hands in there with the wheels straight.:o

Trevor 01-22-2007 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiamat-red
Ok sounds good. I just hope I can get my hands in there with the wheels straight.:o

You could jack up the car, remove the front wheels, refit the wheel nuts possibly with washers as spacers, so as to solidly fasten the discs/rotors in place and then support the car on the wheel hubs or rotors, resting on blocks on your ramps.

This way all sprung weight would be applied evenly as is required and you would have room to work. But be careful and leave the jack in place as back up, but carrying no load. I am sure you will understand what you are about. ;)

Of course if you were doing it properly, you would have ths car sitting on a set of scales, with the idea of making load corrections, but that would be getting carried away. :p

Suby Fan 01-25-2007 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevor

Of course if you were doing it properly, you would have ths car sitting on a set of scales, with the idea of making load corrections, but that would be getting carried away. :p

where would one get ahold of a scale like that???

Trevor 01-25-2007 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Suby Fan
where would one get ahold of a scale like that???

Those in the amateur motor racing world, usually use cheap, bathroom scales. Adequate provided you check/compere there accuracy one to another by means of substitution. Numerical calibration is then of no concern.


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