spark plug change
 

is there anythign quirky about this car that i should know?

i read the thread on the anti sieze very interesting.

and what brand of plugs should i go with?

It's somewhat tight to get to them.

I don't recomend anti-seize on them

Use NGK plugs


My recomendations.:)

I second those recommendations.

any specific level of ngk plugs, will pep boys carry ngk plugs? if not where should i get them

I've never tried to get the NGK's from a "chain" store. You might give them a call. They may have to order them. I usually get mine from Subaruparts.com or 1stsubaruparts.com. You might try Liberty Subaru, they're closer to you.

Another option is to run the NGK Iridium IX plugs.

I paid $6USD/piece, running the IX20 I believe. I have it running in my '00 Legacy GT as well as the SVX, no problems. Same gap and all.

VK

Re: spark plug change
 

Yes: It sucks.

Really - replacing the plugs on my SVX still rates as the most annoying thing I've ever had to do on a car. It took me an entire weekend because over half of my boots got stuck on the plugs and ripped.

I recommend having an inspection mirror on a stick handy, as well as a set of picks. These items make removal of stuck plug boots not only easier, but possible in the first place.

And if you rip any boots, don't worry about it. You can go to an auto parts store, browse their replacement plug wire sets and find yourself something very similar.

Next time I replace my plugs, I'm pulling the &%*#ing engine. I'm serious - I really hated it.

Get the stock NGKs. My old plugs, after 130k miles, looked fine and were all still gapped correctly. If it ain't broke...

I've had no problems with the regular Bosch Platinum...
 

...plugs. Of course I change mine each 60K, so no prior problems getting them loose. Nor with the "boots" (?). I also use dielectric grease on the connector.

It is necessary to remove the air box and the battery & tray, but I had no problems accessing the plugs at all from the top. It is nice to have a couple different short extensions. I actually use my 1/4 drive ratchet with a 3/8 adaptor on a couple of them.

I think leaving them in for a long time only exascerbates the problem... :eek:

Cheers!

Re: I've had no problems with the regular Bosch Platinum...
 

Yeah, the rubber boots that cover the connection between the coil and plug

I don't doubt that you're right.

Mine had over 150k on them, and I didn't have any problems removing them or the coils.:eek:

I've done mine 4 times(copper) and it's not that bad. The first time it took 3 or 4 hours. The last time about 40 minutes. Be prepared for the driver's side rearmost plug. It can take as long as the other five combined.

What's the proper part number for the NGK Iridium plugs for the SVX?

The factory specified spark plugs are actually cheapest from the dealer as far as buying them in town. They are the NGK pfr6b-11 plug. If you are determined to used iridium don't use the ix use the higher quality Iridium plug which doesn't have the ix prefex. The iridium ix plugs do not have the platinum piece on the ground as the OEM quality iridiums do...like the double platinum ngk's that are factory spedified. The bosche's don't either. The best plugs you can get are definitely the ngk's and either the prf6b-11 double platinum plug that is factory specified or the iridium that cross references to it ifr6e-11. Personally I just put in the factory plugs which i was able to pick up from the dealer the same day for $12.50 each. If you want the iridiums go to http://www.ngk.com/default.asp where you can also look up the whole line of ngk plugs available for the svx. If anyone is trying to drive their car on regular unleaded which they really shouldn't they should switch to the pfr5b-11 to avoid detonation like i'm going to do when i bolt up my supercharger.

About the anti-sieze.........factory service manual is very specific to not use anti-sieze or any other lubricant. Spark plugs must be installed using a torque wrench and exactly the right lenght extension/socket combination. Propper torque is 20-29 Nm which is 14-22 Ft.Lbs. of torque. I have a two foot long wobble extension which makes changing that rear drivers side plug through the access hole a snap. I recomend it highly.

You might also want to get a bottle of degreaser and a can of electrical parts cleaner. After you remove the coils use the degreaser to clean up your valve covers if they need it and use the electrical parts cleaner to clean up your coils. Through out the whold project including the mechanical work I as always wear vinyl or latex gloves from the drug store. Don't want to get your hands dirty do you.

If you have the propper tools it's an hour long job at a leisurely pace. If you don't........it's going to be a nightmare. I would and do do it myself though as you probably can't trust your local mechanic to do it right.

I forgot.........

I WOULDN'T use the dielectric grease. Also highly discouraged by the factory service manual as it greatly increases the chance of arcing and missfiring. You'll find your spark plug tips and coils are very far recessed from the faces of your valve covers. If you get some of the dielectric grease oozing out it will be impossible to clean it up.

Shoot. The IX20 were the Nippondenso's... Duh.

BKR6EIX-11 is the NGK part number. They're in my Legacy and SVX right now, both for over a year.

Canadian Tire has them, at $20CDN/2 pack. They run sales every so often, down to $16CDN/2 pack.

VK