Need an Engine Control Module?
 

So recently after months of disuse I finally get the SVX's rear tires re-inflated I jump started it and am instantly greeted with the 16 flashes of the 'POWER' light indicating a transmission problems. The shift feels quite vague and stiff to move into gear. The car was also took time to respond to accelerate, especially in reverse. So thinking the tranny was gunked or worse so I took it to the Transmission shop to have it taken a look at. After close to a week of waiting they get back to me telling me that the transmission is fine (surprised?) yet there seems to be computer problems so they asked if they can take it to another shop that has OBD1 diagnostics.

After patiently waiting even longer (luckily I can commute by mass trasnit) I finally get back to them and they tell me the car needs a new engine control module. I am surprised because I could swear if it was a computer problem it wouldn't start at all like the last time the MAF sensor went out. To make matters even more bewildering they are asking me to source out the part.:confused:

What is the best site to look for an SVX ECU replacement? Also, would simply getting a Stage One ECU and TCU mod be able to take over from the faulty ECU? And can anyone explain if I am right to feel a bit leery that the ECU is the problem at all?

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

Why didn't you just run the diagnostic yourself when you got the 16 Power blinks? It is very easy to do. Instructions can be found in the How-To's under Trouble Codes.

However, if the car gave you the 16 Power blinks on the first start up after sitting for months, without you going for a drive it most likely indicates an electrical problem. Are your battery terminals corroded, loose ground in front of battery, loose/bad ground from transmission to firewall?

As to your question, I believe the car would still start even if the ECM was bad. A car will start with a bad MAF as well, it will just idle rough and most likely shut off at stops and will re-start as if nothing was wrong.

The stage 1 TCU and ECU are no longer available as ECUTUNE has shut down. You might be able to find some from members that no longer want theirs or have extras.

I would definitely be leery, then again I would have never taken my car to a shop. :rolleyes:

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

Do they want to replace the ecu or tcu? Computers rarely fail and when they do it's almost always caused by another electrical issue. If you replace it without correcting the cause of its failure you will be replacing it again.

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

As easy as just working the car myself, no kit required? I guess I should come clean with this problem to your folks earlier.:o I realize now no place has the ECUTune ECU or TCU Stage 1, not even Motorsports Warehouse. I originally took it to a shop to check status of underside corrosion that was recommended by a friend who then told me it was more important to get the transmission addressed first.

They want to replace the ECU I would image, perhaps both. I need to one day have a talk to clear things up because right now they are being vague. So do you think just getting and insisting they put in a replacement battery would go a long way towards diagnosing the issue?

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

Yes that easy, if it is OBD1 Pre-1995, that is.

How to Check Transmission (TCU) Error Codes
Author: FSM
The "Power" light indicates transmission codes. Long blinks = 10, short blinks = 1. In other words, two long and two short blinks is a code 22. One long and one short is code 11. The following self diagnosis will show any fault codes for the transmission.
The most common trouble code is "11" and is almost always caused by a faulty transmission resistor located between the battery and fender.

To perform the self diagnosis test for EXISTING problems:
1. Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2. Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4. Turn ignition switch OFF.
5. Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
6. Turn ignition switch ON.
7. Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
8. Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
9. Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
10. Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11. Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

To perform the self diagnosis test for PREVIOUS problems:
1. Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2. Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4. Turn ignition switch OFF.
5. Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
6. Turn ignition switch ON.
7. Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
8. Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
9. Move selector lever to "D" and turn manual switch OFF.
10. Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11. Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

List of TCU Trouble Codes
Trouble Code
Item
11
Duty solenoid A
12
Duty solenoid B
13
Shift solenoid 3
14
Shift solenoid 2
15
Shift solenoid 1
21
ATF temp sensor
22
Atmospheric sensor
23
Engine revolution signal
24
Duty solenoid C
31
Throttle sensor
32
Vehicle speed sensor 1
33
Vehicle speed sensor 2


It would be ideal to start with a well charged electrical system.

Another question nagging me
 

Thank you for all the information provided. I just have one more question nagging me just so when I approach these folks I can speak from a position of strength. According to them the car now starts and stops without the aid of jumpers. I was also wondering if it is prudent to get it a new battery anyway just to make sure the SVX gets enough juice.

They told me that the 'relay system' within the PCM was shorted according to their diagnosis. The part I was recommended to look for is 2611AA683. When I look up ECMs I see the module listed more often as 2611AA682. When I do find parts (as it seems to be a set) of the 2611AA683 OEM ECM, it is far more expensive then the 2611AA682 module. I was wondering how important is it to get the entire assembly and if the relay they claim is shorted is one of the parts listed in the factory diagram?

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

Computers don't generally have relays inside them they are just a bunch of transistors. Perhaps you have a bad quad driver but I don't think the shop knows what it is talking about on.

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

Find a new shop. plain and simple.

Re: Need an Engine Controle Module?
 

I agree with Nate. If you do need a tcu for test purposes I have a spare. Plug in known good computer, same thing happens, confirmation computer is not the issue.