Stop Lamp Warning Light Always On (Not Brake Warning), Bulbs OK, but No Brake Lights
 

I also posted this in Chris' SVX Shop here but I'm at a loss and want to see if there is a way to fix.

1992 SVX LS-L with 115K:
My Stop Lamp Warning Light (not the Brake Warning Lamp) came on and has stayed on all the time. I check the bulbs and even replaced them but the brake lights do not work. The normal parking lights work but no brake lights whatsoever when pressing on the normal brake or with lifting the parking brake.

I checked under the dash for any loose harnesses/wires, sticking switches, etc but nothing out of the ordinary. I also checked under the trunk lining and all the lights (also inside trunk lid) but nothing.

Any suggestions--is there a relay for brake lights that might have gone bad?

All I have is the owners manual and ther is no mention of relays or if the Stop Lamp Warning Light always stays on.

P.S. Anyone know of a good dealer or mechanic that knows SVXs in the McLean, VA or Fairfax,Va area? Thanks.

A common problem is the stop lamp checker relay. This is located in the right side in the trunk, behind the carpeted panel, in front of the rear washer fluid reservoir. The design and mounting is such that if water gets into this area the checker relay acts as a reservoir to collect and hold water. This was my problem on my 92 pearlie. My suby dealer disconnected it up at the front passenger's kick panel (B99 connector). .

Relay replacement is a simple 1 plug/1 screw operation. Part No. 88081PA000 Cost of the part is about $33.00

Also see this thread http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...p+lamp+checker


Doug Mohr's explanation of how this circuit works:

The rear stop light sensor works by separating the stop lamps into two circuits, each with two bulbs. The two center panel lights are one circuit and the two outside lights are the other.

The two circuits each go into a sensor and each current draw is measured. If it is not in balance (ie, one circuit has two bulbs, the other only has one working) the "stop lamp" on the dash comes on.

The manual tells you the only "fooled" instance. If one bulb from the center panel is burned out and one bulb on an outer light is burned out, the "stop lamp" indicator will not come on.

It has a fail-safe provision so if all four bulbs are burned out (zero current flow) it triggers the light.

If you put higher wattage bulbs in the center panel but regular bulbs in the outer lights, the imbalance will trigger an indicator even though all four bulbs light.

If you replace your lights with LEDs, the light will trigger because the LEDs use next to no current, so the sensor thinks all four bulbs are burned out.

Thanks. Ordered the lamp checker part and it should be here Thursday.

Anyone know of a way to bypass the lamp checker to get the brake lights working in the meantime? I read about the cutting of the B99 connector (will disconnecting it work too?) . Also, the harness connector diagram I've seen here

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/5989.gif

shows that the B99 is on the passenger (right had) side and not the drivers as stated here:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...&highlight=b99

I have looked at the connectors in the car itself but don't see any labels.

I bypassed mine for a whole winter. Water had gotten in mine and the froze.The brakelights didnt work at all. I simply crimped spade connectors onto a piece of wire and plugged the spades into the connector that plugs into the checker.I cant tell you right off hand which openings in the connector I jumped(It was a couple of years ago) but it wasnt that hard to figure out.
Good luck. BillC

Thanks everyone. Got the part and everything's fixed. I think I'm going to tape it into a plastic bag to prevent any water getting into it.

Now, I gotta find a decent reasonable place to get a tune up in the Washington, DC area. The local dealer here who has an experienced SVX tech wants like
$700 for a tune up and then another $1000 for the timing belt/water pump for the 120K maintenance. Damn, I'm used to higher prices having lived in San Diego but that is ridiculous. They're saying 8 hours labor for the tune up which I can understand but 12 hours for the timing belt and water pump-ouch.

Maybe with one hand tied behind their back, only 4 fingers on the working hand and a bad back, then it *might* just take 12 hours to change a timing belt and water pump! Otherwise for a supposed professional with all the proper tools and manuals, it should take less than 3 hours on a cold engine. Perhaps they're trying to bill you for the time it takes for the engine to cool off?

KuoH