Trans or rear diff
 

I'm having a problem with the transmission or rear differential in my SVX. It runs and drives fine but I get a popping or binding noise when I make a tight turn. It's worse when backing up. Driving straight and normal turns, no problem, but if I turn sharply when I take off or backup it sort of pops or grinds. It seems turning to the left is worse than the right. I'm pretty sure it's not the CV joints. I never hear the telltale CV rattle and I never have any noise when driving down the road. I am assuming it is probably in the rear diff but I was hoping someone may know how to tell if its the diff or in the tranny. Can anyone help?

Sounds like the center diff (the transfer clutches) are binding....could be the solinoid that activates the clutches....
Either can be done with the tranny in the car, by removing the rear housing on the tranny....

some people have had good results by adding "LSD additive" to the tranny fluid (yes the stuff for the rear diff).....

Also, make sure all your tires are the same size, brand, and worn the same....

Miss matched tires on an AWD is a big No-NO

Thanks. I have a couple of old transmissions laying around. I'll try the rear clutch assembly from one of those. I hated to remove the rear diff from one of my other cars just to see if that was the problem. I have been having trouble finding one to purchase. That would have been a lot of work.

I am having the exact same problem, and I just resealed my trans and put new frictions/steels in. I didn't replace the selenoids. Thats aboult all I didn't do. Any idea which selenoid I might need to replace?

Duty C solenoid. I dunno exactly which on it is in the tranny, but I'd guess it's the only one in the tailshaft housing.

Exactly what Paul said...it's located in the tail housing on the tranny...the only one in there...

it is solieniod c as i just had a blinking power light and it turned out to be that paticular item. at startup does your power light blink ? not come on them go off but blink repeatidly like 16 times

Torque bind is usually a result of Solenoid C failing or the clutches binding up in the housing. Either way requires major transmission work.

No, I don't think my power light comes on at startup. I have never noticed it at all. I was trying to look for it coming on last time i drove it and didn't see it.

I am not scared of tranny work, as I have done all the work by myself for it already. I just need to figure out what is the the root cause. I installed new clutch steels and frictions in the transfer case when I did the rest of the transmission.

Solenoid C activates a transfer control valve via a pilot valve and all are in the same area. These valves must also be considered as suspect. As I understand it, the usual procedure is to replace the complete assembly.

That said, it should be possible to ascertain the exact cause of the problem and act accordingly, rather than simply throw parts at it. Look for worn/damaged valve seats and dirt or debris preventing proper closure. Be sure you have more brains than the wrench monkey paid only to replace anything/everything suspect, so as to add to the bottom line on the charge sheet. ;)

Do you think that I may have the new transfer clutch frictions a bit too tight and they just need to wear in a touch? I've also read that putting LSD additive in the ATF helps. If so, how much and which kind should I put in?
Thanks for your help guys.