Another thread about another mysterious noise...
 

Well I'm sure we're ALL sick of hearing about unkown problems with people's SVX, but I've got one more to tickle the brain...

The SVX has been running great the last 2 years, haven't put much into it as far as having to replace (Regular maitnence, air filter replaced, ignition wires replaced), but I've been getting a noise lately that is making me nervous. The other problem is it's getting increasinly louder and more prominant, so I'm learning time is an issue in this case.

So now the fun part. Where everyone, were we not connected via the electrical wonders of the internet, would be laughing at me and the noises I would be trying immitate. But anyway, enough with the joking.

When I accelerate and turn the wheel left (only left), I get a HORRIBLE creaking/groaning noise. Defineatly sounds like metal on metal. The fastest I've ever heard it is 30MPH, above that it doesnt seem to be an issue. It is most noticable pulling away from a stop/yield sign. It is also ONLY under load, it does not do it if I am not on the accelerator. It is not a clanging noise, it is much deeper than that. Also, the noise is coming from the drivers side only, so it would be, if it is suspension related, the side that is compressed left (as you turn left, the suspension compresses more on the right). Which seems odd. Also, it is loudest when I'm hardly turning the wheel, like maybe 10-20degrees to the left, say to accelerate away from a stop sign at a fork in the road. It then will not make it until the wheel is turned much more, as if to make a say, 90degree turn from a stop sign or light.

I'm thinking its drivertrain related, given that it only happens under load. Also, given that it happens only turning left, I think it is a clearence issue when the wheel is turned that way. Wish I could hang underneath the car WHILE I drive it to locate the exact position...

Lets see, other information... it's an LSi with AWD, '94. No major modifications, 16" aftermarket wheels with stock sized tires too that I've had for almost 2 years on the car, so that shouldnt be causing the problem.

If I notice anything else I'll update, but its been making it for 2 weeks now or so, so I should've noticed just about everything at this point. I live in New Hampshire, so if any of you crazy tech-heads live around here and want to come listen to it in person or take it out for a drive, just let me know. PM me and I'll hit you up with my cell phone.

Also, tracks perfectly straight coasting, and a LITTLE to the right under load, if I let go of the wheel and such. But that could be just the grading of the road... if its the car is very minor. No extra feedback or wierd jarring of the wheel when the noise is made either. I'm really at a loss for what it could be, unless its like a CV joint or something like that.


Any and all help is much appriciated. I'm not new to the car thing, but relative to alot of the folks on here I am, seeing as how I'm only 19yrs old, so I've only been able to obtain so much knowledge in my short amount of time in this world. There are guys on here that have owned SVX's for close to 15 years...:eek: Hehe.

Craig

"I get a HORRIBLE creaking/groaning noise. Defineatly sounds like metal on metal. The fastest I've ever heard it is 30MPH, above that it doesnt seem to be an issue. It is most noticable pulling away from a stop/yield sign. It is also ONLY under load, it does not do it if I am not on the accelerator"

Are you driving with JUST your drivers side window down?
With both windows up, COULD it be coming from the middle of the car?

i recently had a similar experience too. My symptons were almost the same and it was because i uhmmm.... well..... you see....... I.... uhmmm..... kinda forgot to refill my front diff
:stupid:

Moved.

Please post in the appropriate forum.

Yeah my bad on the whole where I posted it....

I drive with both windows down. Its defineatly drivers side.

I'm thinking CV joints... Any ideas on how to test em? And where to buy em?

Shouldn't be the front diff... I haven't touched it. But I can check it, perhaps the fluid is just been in there for so long its going bad and needs to be changed?

The CV joint is part of the axle -- it's easier just to replace the whole axle. Barring any serious difficulty removing things (like ball joints, for example), it can be replaced in a couple of hours on a lift. You can get a new axle for around $80.00 at Advance Auto Parts.

Don't know about the diff - that's Tom's department.

if it made the noise under load all the time, I would say it could possibly be the front diff. BUT since it is only when you turn left, I would eliminate that poss for now... Head out to your local parts store and pick up a pair of rebuilt front axles. Switch them out as a precaution and consider it reg. maint. If this doesn't fix your problem get back to us... Since it only happens under load and when you are turning left I would say its a good chance this is your issue. Unless there is something i am missing or you have neglected to tell us... Check your ball joints and strut tops too, if these lose grease, they can and will make a creaking noise

tom

Had the day off...

Ripped it apart. As soon as I got the wheel off I could see the problem. The collar covering the Outer CV joint is no longer working properly. There was grease all over the place from the CV joint...

SOoooo... all in all I got nothing done today. Everything and anything was fighting me. My new stablizer bushings came in too, but could only get the bushing off the passenger side. The Drivers side, I can't get the sway arm link off, tried pulling and prying, but its stuck as a bastard. Also tried to get the visor droop fixed and failed. At that point I got so disheartened I packed the tools up and called it a day (20 min ago).

I did order a new CV axle from Sanel Auto Parts Plus. Said it'll be here in a week. They only have one made up, so I'll do the broken one (drivers side), and consider it a learning experience, and then do the passenger side at a later date. I have halted destruction because they only charged me $70 for the axle... I want to see it to make sure it's what I need, for these cars that seems REALLY cheap.

I'll keep updating. The part is due in within a week he said. I do have a Haynes repair manual, so I've been using that.

Oh, and I also forgot to get to open the bushings up... So I wrested with that for a while, FINALLY got it on. Then realized it had to come off. I don't think I've ever been so pissed. Needless to say, there is still no bushing on the car (at least I got it BACK off! That was a real fight). I need to stop after work tomorrow and get a dremel attachment to make those bushings the right size.

PS. Since it only seems that the boot came off, so the joint is loosing grease, do you know of a way I can grease it up and put it back together and have it be happy, and NOT have to replace the axle shaft??? Thanks for all the help thus far guys, this place is a wealth of knowledge. :)

It takes ALOT more work and time to replace just the boots.
So I always just replace the axle if the boot gets torn/broken.
At Advance Auto Parts its only $70.0 for a new, lifetime warranty axle.
For SOME reason they sell a new one for $10.00 more than a rebuilt one, :confused: and you don't have to turn in your old one.
Tom
ps; Watch your fingers when you pry down the lower control arm, the resilience of the rubber bushings trys to swing the lower control arm back up with conciderable force!:eek:

Sounds like a plan. Now I just need to find an 18mm dremel thinger and a way to get the drivers side sway bar link off... :(

Thanks for the warning... but I have to take the lower control arm off?! My manual says nothing of that...:( Guess we'll find out in a week when the new part arrives. For now I want to get the bushings swapped out and slap it back together till then. I think its defineatly drivable, I don't want it sitting on stands for a week.

no no no... pop the ball joint out of the hub and pry down on the control arm to push the ball joint out of the hub

Tom

What I use is a 3/4" ball grinder, run on a drill, against a bench grinder, untill it measured 18mm.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS, YOU'LL PUT YOUR EYE OUT!!!:rolleyes:

Haha. Sounds like fun. I just took a dremel sanding/grinding head and eye-balled it to the stock bushing :cool:

Now I can't get the stupid CV all set. Got all the way to getting the new one on, and the pin doesn't line up, as if they drilled the hole in the wrong spot, so the splines don't line up perfectly. Probably about a 2mm offset. My thought is to drill out the outer part (CV axle). Any other ideas? :confused:

Before you start adding new holes, check with some of the experts here. Sometimes there are tricks to these things, sometimes people have things in upside-down or backwards and that's why things don't line up.

Tom had a problem removing a drift pin that was only halfway in (I think it was on an axle) because the guy who was putting it back together before had it turned 180° from the direction it was supposed to go. :rolleyes:

These things happen. :p

i don't reccomend replacing the boot and refilling it with oil, as the cv joint has already been exposed, has dirt, excess wear, etc. that is bad for it, and hte reason the boot is there to begin with. The hassle/cost of replacing the whole thing is much easier/safer than replacing the boot.