AC dont work! where to start??
 

Hi

my air con does not work :( it was not the problem during the winter but now it becomes another big issue for me :(

black leather black rooth, 25'C+ and sun the perfect condition to sit in the car without air con ...:rolleyes:

anyways, where do i start fixing it? )should i hear click when i turn the AC button? or have a change in rpms? so far neither first nor second. Belt is in proper place, Compressor turns but nothing..

i turned air con on, and looked in that receiver- dryer tiny window and nothing is there, just emptyness...

i would like to see if my system operates properly before going and adding the refrigerator into it.

anyone can gimme good advice?
heater seems to be working fine, and everything blows well but only warm and hot air...

i tried to run self diagnostic, but got code 00, which supposed to mean that everything is fine, but its not!
(air con never worked, and it could be cause of engine rebuilt in 2001 but who knows

this sounds strange....to get 00 from the diagnostics and yet nothing.

when you say compressor turns, are you only looking at the outer pulley part? Is the inner hub is spinning too? Although I think a code should be set if this was the problem, does the air flow move up to the dash vents like it should for A/C on? Is it hot ambient air, or is it like the heater is on? (may be that the doors aren't opening/closing/moving as they should).

ok there is no change at all if i push a/c button or not

should i hear the clicking of ac clutch? and should i have change in rpms?

i dont have anything so thats weird..


compressor turns i mean belt turns it,... but nothing else... still has not opened it to see what is inside...

I don't hear the click of the A/C relay on mine, but when it switches from off to on (like somebody turns it off for you inside), you should see the middle of the pulley on the front of the compressor spin with it on, stop with it off.

Not sure if this helps but I recall someone mentioning that when the tranny is replaced, there is some conduit or the like near the transmission area that is connencted to the A/C system and that it is likely if someone is not careful, that such can be damaged.

I don't know anything else about this, however, maybe someone on here can???

James

I'm starting to think that when a garage changes the tranny they may be climbing on top of the engine and probably leaning or putting force on one of the hard A/C pipes.

We've done this a couple times during the 5spd conversion and we could hear hissing coming from that pipe right at the compresser. I'll probably be replacing all the o-rings in the A/C system (kit) then put in some R134a to replace what's currently in there.

ok then middle of puley wont sping with pulley on the a/c
so i guess clutch dont work....

ok now what could be the reason... seems like relay and fuse are fine... unfortunatly there wont be easy fix :(

IIRC, there is a pressure switch (tri-state switch?) somewhere near the receiver dryer. Unless the gas pressure in the system is within certain limits, it will not engage the clutch.
I suggest you get an A/C engineer to test your system for leaks and fill it with gas.

^^^^^^^^^^^^

What Phil said.

It's almost certain there's a leak - the freon is all gone, and that's why the clutch isn't engaging.

all i want to check now, is if it is really a leak in a system and no freon is left

but actually there can be something else wrong.. so i wanna know if clutch actually will work with freon...

trying to find what voltage should i have on compressor when ac is on/off

ok it says:
if compressor clutch does not turn on or off: check fuse, for defective trinary pressure switch, faulty a/c relay/ defective multipoint injection Electronic control unit, insufficient refrigerabt or faulty wiring harness...

so seems like i need to check something else as well... before wasting my money on adding freon...

any ideas how to check trinqary pressure switch?

I know how to check trinary switch, but before describing that just take off the cap for the freon near the compressor and gently touch the shrader valve. If you have freon, then there should definitely be a release of gas. Don't hold it down, just touch it to see if there's any pressure - car engine should be off.

if you have pressure, then with engine on, try using a jumper wire from the battery positive post to the clutch - that bypasses all the computer/sensor stuff and the clutch should kick in. Just connect long enough to see if it kicks in, don't leave it connected because continuing to spin the compressor with other problems present may kill it.

Locally (for me), you can usually get a tech to tell you what's wrong for something on the order of less than $15. Is that service not available there? Most DIY testing after this point will need a schematic and a VOM.