Time to pull the motor
 

I'm going to be pulling my engine so that I can replace various items including

Timing belt
water pump
thermostat
engine mounts

I'd like to know which seals I can replace simultaneously, and easily. I'm not looking to do a full teardown. I'm under the impression that I can do the main seal, cam seals, and cam caps. What about rear main seal? Also, what part numbers from Subaruparts.com are they, and what quantity do I need?

Thanks!

subaruparts.com has a full gasket set you can buy which (I believe) includes everything for a full gasket and seal replacement.

Yup, here you go: 10105AA060 is the number. Includes about 50 seals and gaskets, $240.

Rear main. DOIT nooooooowwwwwww.

That gasket kit is good, too. Something like $250 last I checked.

SVX10, why would you want to replace the cam caps? I didn't think they were wearable parts....are they normally replaced?

rocker cover bolt gaskets!:cool:
-Bill

they do leak. I HIGHLY suggest just getting the engine seal kit for simplicity. They also have new timing cover gaskets in it... Just so much there. If you wanted to pull the heads and send them to a machine shop to get milled, you could ask them to clean up the valves and replace your valve seals at the same time. This is what I would do since the seal kit comes with new valve seals too:)

Tom

Tom, perhaps we are referring to two different things. From my understanding the cam caps are simply the caps that secure the camshaft to the cylinder head. I do not see how the cam caps would leak? Perhaps you were referring to the bolts with the rubber gaskets that secure the valve cover?

cam caps I am referring to are the plugs that seal the top(intake) cams. Caps do wear though as most of the load of the cam rides on the cap

Tom

... I would assume an equal load, however they're also typically location specific and would not be replaceable items unless you were to align hone the new ones which is a PITA and expensive. It is the only "proper" way if you were to lose one, or not label where the camshaft bearing caps.

The end caps are easily replaceable and should be anytime you are in there anyway.

No way there is equal load. Take a look at the journals and you will see it is about 1/16th of an inch on the head side while the cap is closer to 1/2"

Tom

Thanks for the input
 

Thanks for the input everybody. I'm not going to get the entire seal kit, though, as I only plan to replace the front and rear main seals (is there a front main seal? I couldn't find it in the subaruparts.com diagrams).

Here's what I'm getting so far

Water Pump
Thermostat
Thermostat gasket
water pump gasket
Timing belt
Cam plugs
Radiator hose inlet
Radiator hose outlet
Oil seal (part # 806786040 - I THINK this is the rear main seal)
Oil Seal (part #806733030 - I THINK this is the front crank seal)
Oil seal 32x45x8 (part #806732150 - cam seals?)
Valve cover gaskets

Any critical seals missing that I might as well do while I'm in there (remember...I'm not taking the engine apart...)?

Mat

This was my laundry list when I pulled mine

14075AA021 Gskt Intake Collector (2)$10.33 $7.87
16175AA091 Throttle Chamber Gas $6.90 $5.26
15010AA133 Oil Pump Ay $152.95 $116.55
13270AA031 Gskt Rocker Cover Rh $20.95 $15.96
13294AA020 Gskt Rocker Cover $7.95 $6.06
13294AA030 Gskt Rocker Cover $7.95 $6.06
13272AA031 Gskt Rocker Cover Lh $20.95 $15.96
13293AA011 Gskt Rocker Cover No $7.95 $6.06
13293AA020 Gskt Rocker Cover No $7.95 $6.06
13271AA051 Wash Rocker Cvr $2.95 $2.25 (20)
21200AA072 Thermostat $12.25 $9.33
21236AA010 Thermostat Gasket $3.33 $2.54
21111AA033 Water Pump $108.28 $82.51
21114AA051 Gasket Water Pump $2.55 $1.94
13028AA120 Timing Belt $99.95 $76.16
806786040 Oil Seal $11.37 $8.66 (rear main seal)
14038AA010 Gskt Exhaust Manifol 9.57 14.58 (2)
806733030 Oil Seal $7.17 $5.46 $5.46 (front crank seal)
62101PA081 Sleeve Lock Regulator $9.95 $7.58
11126AA000 crush washer oil pan $0.61
806732150 Oilseal-32x45x8 $6.11 $12.22

You shouldn't have to pull the motor to do those, with the exception of the rear main. While you have the motor out, it'd be a good idea to also replace the torque converter seal in the transmission, it's not that expensive and it's just as much of a pain in the ass as the rear main if it starts leakin.

But all that stuff is A LOT easier with the motor out, I'd also do the spark plugs as well.

The shop I work at is uber busy right now, but it'll be dead in Jan/Feb. I plan on pulling the motor out of the SVX for a complete seals/gasket job, T-belt, water pump...Before Feb 23rd though, because I'm doing a performance winter driving school:D

I decided to pull the motor to make a few things easier. In addition to all those seals, I'm doing engine mounts, I'm doing the steering rack, and I'm re-doing alot of the clutch stuff for my 5MT swap. All of those things will be SOOOO much easier with the motor out. I think it'll take me less time to pull and re-install the motor than it would to do just the clutch stuff if I left the motor in there. Thus the reason I did such a crappy job the first time around :rolleyes:

Good luck man... Its always easier with a buddy or two around to help, or laugh at you when you crush a knuckle. :eek:

Nowadays it is best to do the headgasket while you have the engine out. I have seen far too many motors with bad head gaskets because of 15yrs of exposure to coolant and water. But don't take my word for it, there is the hard way to find out

Tom

Kill me now.

Any special procedures/tricks to get the engine to separate from the trans (5MT)? I've got everything disconnected and about 1/2" separation between the two, but I can't get the dang engine to pull out. Using an engine hoist along with a jack at the front edge of the engine.

HELLLLLP!!! :(:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

I hate car work more and more every time I do it

You did take the 5mt slide pin out right?? To release the fork from the throwout bearing? It is behind the big allen head plug next to the starter.

Tom

No, I did not. Shouldn't the transmission input shaft slide out anyway?

Is it necessary for an 02 WRX trans? I"ll do it...it's easy...I just want to understand why it won't separate now.

because, the clutch fork is attached to the pressure plate via the throwout bearing. if you need to seperate them, you need to pull the slide pin and lift the clutch fork off of the throwout bearing so it can move away from the trans. The slide pin is secured to the case so there is no moving it. It is just the way the pull type clutches work.

Tom

Thanks, Tom. I got it out in about 5 minutes after removing that pin.

Interesting thing is that something is misagligned between the clutch, TO bearing, and engine output. Spinning the TOB it is obviously not quite centered correctly. When I removed the cluth, I put it on the TOB on a flat surface and spun it, and you could see that the clutch spun in a slightly oblique pattern.

Any ideas? Clutch alignment tool isn't quite right? Pressure plate splines bent?

no, the TOB has a little lateral movement to it. it is very normal, you can push it side to side

Tom

So,theoretically I should be able to place it so that it would appear centered. I'll check for that. I definitely screwed something up during the initial install, though. One of the bolts for the clutch was backed out partially allowing for a noticeable gap to the flywheel (1/8"). that could explain the clutch judder I had.

Also had 2 completely sheared engine mounts. I'm not really even sure what they were doing functionally. Now your solid mounts are on, though, so things should feel MUCH better when it's all buttoned up :D

BTW, one of the bolts for the new mounts you sent me is very hard to get to for tightening. I'm guessing this is normal?

yeah, I usually just use the other two and leave it at that

Tom

Well, last night was productive, seeing the installation of new valve cover gaskets, new water pump, and a new thermostat. Next up are

rear main seal
front crank seal
cam seals
cam caps

I have a few questions:

rear main seal - I've read that I drill a small pilot hole in the middle of it and pull it out with a hook. However, I'm guessing that is' in there pretty tight. Can I do anything to prep it to improve my chance for success? Last thing I want is to drill a hole, then try to pull it out and just pull through the rubber. Then I have a ruined seal and no idea how to get it out.

front crank seal - do I have to pull the oil pump to get to it? Or can I just pull part #16 in the below diagram?
http://www.subaruparts.com/subaru.diag/2/i010-A.gif

cam seals - I'm assuming that I have to remove the cam pulleys to replace these. So, since my reference marks for the timing belt are on the pulleys, are the pulleys keyed so that when I put them back on, everything is in the same orientation in relation to the actual cams?

cam caps - do these just pry/pull off? I didn't want to get too aggressive if that's not how they work, but it seems like they should just pop off.
I'm gonna go search some more for answers, but if you have the knowledge and would be willing to share, I'd definitely appreciate it!! Thanks.

I was nervous about nicking the crank, so I pulled the oil pump in order to replace the front main seal. Piece of cake.

Along with every other seal on the back, bottom, front and sides of my engine (save the aforementioned front main seal) I have to replace my rear main seal. I haven't seen it, but it's likely got a metal ring inside the rubber, so drilling a hole in it and pulling it out with a hook makes sense; you'd have something solid to pull against. It sounds way better than trying to pry it out with a screwdriver, anyway.

If you don't have any, get a set of picks from Sears. I use mine all the time.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

use a flat blade screwdriver to get all the seals out. just be mindful when pushing in and prying out of what it is touching and rubbing against

Tom

I like to use a fine thread drywall screw and a claw hammer to pull a rear main.

rear main was a breeze. However, cam caps are being a PITA. Also, never heard back about the cam seals...are the cam pulley's keyed to help me maintain alignment when I put them back on? I'm assuming they are, but a definitive yes/no would be great.

How do i get the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft so I can do the front seal? Puller?

cams and crank are keyed so just pop em off. Like I said, screwdriver is quick and easy as long as you don't go gauging it in there. Punch throught the cam caps and pop them out. OR grab a pair of channel locks and grab the caps and twist and pull them out

Tom

Quoted to show the level of finesse YT uses when working on internal combustion engines:p:lol::lol::lol:

"Pop 'em off" "Punch throught (sic) the cam caps" "graba pair of channel locks and twist them out" Frustrated much with the kiddies Thomas:lol::lol::lol:

today was....ugh... frustrating. But yeah, just need to be mindful of what you are doing and it is easy to get this stuff done

Tom

Impressive and rather complete.

The only thing I don't see is the oil cover separator and new bolts for that:

P/N's

11831AA210 (qty. 1)
800406140 (qty. 5)
800406150 (qty. 1)

soooooooooooooo....

I've got the cam adjuster tool to loosen my cam bolts with no luck. ugh.

Plus, I can't get the toothed sprocket off my crankshaft. I guess 15 years and 170k miles has them on there pretty tight. Any ideas other than get a longer wrench?

cam caps
 

i replaced cam seals and valve cover gaskets when i did the water pump and timing belt and i didnt think i needed to replace the cam caps and now the dang things r leaking, i highly recomend u place the cam caps while u r at it

Need help...again
 

Well, all the seals and everything are done, but now I can't get the freakin' engine to mate to the trans. Any tips?

I have the T/O bearing and release fork installed on the transmission side as suggested in the Impreza service manual. I have the clutch installed on the engine side, of course, and I used the input shaft of a junker transmission (same transmission, though) to align the clutch. I've been able to get nuts on the 2 bottom bellhousing bolts, and the starter bolt is started. Can't get the Upper Passenger Side bolt to engage. I'm hesitant about just cranking down on the 3 engaged bolts cuz they're getting a bit heavy to turn.

When we get everything "aligned" and wiggle it to get it to go on farther, the driver's side top isn't moving very easily despite the lower bolt being perfectly aligned and everything looking parallel. No issues with the pins or anything either.

So, let me know what I should do.

Thanks :(

well... Put the trans in gear.... Use the driveshaft to try and turn the rear output shaft. If it doesn't turn or is very hard to turn the clutch disk is aligned with the input shaft. If you aligned the clutch pre-install there shouldn't be an issue with using the bolts to pull it together. If it is hanging up on the alignment pins... Thats fine to suck it together with the bolts... If not, there is another issue here and you should prob back it out and take a closer look at what might be worng

Tomn

Is this the same engine going back on the same transmission? If not make sure you don't have the alignment dowels doubled up....