SVX rust weakness
 

Another user ( gwarusee ) outlined on another thread how if you noticed rust bubbling out above the side body cladding that you would probably find underneath the cladding would be a rusty mess.
I immediately went out to see if I could determine if this was the case on my 97'- I did have a little bit of rust bubbling out on the driver side. I started pressing all over the door cladding and, sure enough, I heard a lot of crunchy sounds :eek: . Now I am a little sick knowing my baby is being eaten away. So this is a heads up for everybody who has not ever inspected under that cladding.
I was planning on having it painted next spring, but would still like to get under there and have a look and maybe even grind it off myself and seal it.
I would appreciate if anybody here can post how to get the door cladding off - I understand it can be a little difficult.

hmm.. thanks for the heads up, time to take a look before the winter - *crosses fingers

From what I've seen the SVX is fairly resistant to rust for a modern car. Mine hasn't been so lucky though.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...ilot/44095.JPG

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...ilot/44097.JPG

The amount of repair mine needs is a little scary. New doors, fenders, and rear quarters. I also plan on replacing every part under the car (Subframes, suspension, etc.)

The attached picture shows what's left of my left front spindle.

I've got rust in the same spots on my doors. My rear fenders around the wheel wells are gettin pretty gnarly too.

Luckily the underbody looks fantastic.

I'll definatley be checking back to see how to get under that cladding.

Remember subies rust from the inside out. Just because you look okay on the outside doesn't mean that you are. The cladding rust just so happens to be right where the door reinforcement bar runs through and usually exactly where it was spotted in. Cheap ways to keep it as rust free as possible are wash it at least 1 time a week in the winter with plenty of water to get everything out. Add a touch of kerosene to the water if possible as it gives it an oily coat which will resist rust and salt a bit. 1/20th is about the right mixture. Oh yeah don't tell Al Gore I told you that one. I even went so far as to fill my rockers on my BRAT with gear oil (not in my driveway though as it'll leak out until you get moving to slosh it around in there! Don't park it in a heated garage in winter. Wait just don't drive it in the winter!:barf:

To remove the door cladding. Remove inside door panel ( assorted screws under felt near inside door lever and plastic connectors around door) etc. After inside door panel is removed you will see three or so nuts that hold the outside trim panel on ( the nuts are 10mm I think ). Easy to take off and then you will have a better idea of how much rust there is.

Once you have the inside door panel off you will have to carefully peel back the clear plastic on the inside of the door to see the nuts.

So, you're telling me that I shouldn't drive my 4WD machine in the snow...

You and I wouldn't get along.

OK, that's easy enough to get the door panels off. I'm on it soon as I get home.
What about taking off the rest of the side cladding? I don't think it will be as bad there but it should be given a look too.
Kind of funny about cladding - it is meant to protect the metal parts of the car but in the end it probably is more detrimental than good.
I noticed a neighbour of mine this spring had all the bumpers, air dam, and bits of cladding off his Volvo and was cleaning everything. I thought what a great idea. He looked like a real office type too so it can't be that difficult.
I have spent a great deal of time underneath the car and except for the brake calipers and associated hardware, everything looks pretty darn good. Lots of covers and factory undercoating. Sort of surprises me that SVX designers overlooked protecting the areas under the cladding a little better.

I wouldn't worry about under the cladding, water leaks past the seal on the front up & down windows and makes it's way to the bolt holes through the door. I'd be more concerned with the rear quarters where the back bumper meets the body. Pull the inner fender protectors down, unbolt the bumper and give it a good cleaning back there. Check your rear strut tower mounts as well a lot of crap can build up in there. It wouldn't hurt to coat some of the non-visable surfaces with POR-15 or some other rust inhibitor.

Well that was an adventure. Once I got the door panel off I immediately sighted the 3 10mm nuts that have to come off. The speaker must be removed to get the front one off. BUT, as soon as I got onto that first nut things went bad. Ya see, the nuts all attach to studs fitted into a 1 1/2" wide metal strip that fits into a lip on the inner top of the cladding. And this metal strip is the weak link. The nuts and studs all broke away from the metal strip because it was no longer a metal strip - it was a rust strip:( . I was able to detach all the plastic clips and then lift the cladding straight up the 3 stud backings.
Underneath the cladding was actually pretty good - just one clip hole had significant rust and a couple other holes were just getting started. The metal strip I swept up in a dust pan.
Now, I am wanting to order a new metal strip and all the clips so I can put the cladding back on but cannot find them on SubaruParts.com. They are not there! I looked and looked. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PROVIDE ME WITH THE PART #'s ?
Anybody else who wants to do this - order the parts first because I can just about guarantee that every SVX that has ever been out in the rain will have this problem.

I don't know the part number, but when I stopped at the dealer to get some for the racer, they quoted me About $8 ea for the plastic clips :eek: :eek:

Go to the Subaruparts SVX parts lookup site. http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=login&logout=y

You want to look in the 1992 SVX Section. Then click on the "Sealing and Trim" category (very bottom). Then look for the Side Garnish sub-category. Lots of attaching stuff in this section.

All the strips, clips, double-sided adhesive tapes, etc. can be found there. Here is the diagram from that section:


The metal strips are 3 and 4 in the above diagram. The part numbers are:

91093PA000 Holder RH $22.01
91093PA010 Holder LH $22.01


Note: for body, sealing, trim or interior parts, ALWAYS look in the 1992 or 1993 section. The 1992 section will give you gray interior parts, while the 1993 section will give you the gray AND beige part numbers. The later year diagrams are not as comprehensive.

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One alternative that will work perfectly fine, is to use 3m double sided trim tape. It will hold the cladding on perfectly fine. I used this on my doors until I luckily ran into a set that were completly rust free. you can find it at any auto parts store by their auto body section. just put a long strip of it on the lip right there were the metal retainer bar used to sit behind(make sure you clean the car body and the claddign reallt good before hand so it sticks) After being on for a few days out in the air it will hold pretty much as good as being bolted. It is sort of weird that they used such a cheap piece of metal inside there. The front cladding retainer strip on the front fender is most likly not rusted at all, but the rear cladding on the rear quarter wilkl do the same thing as the door.

This forum has never let me down! Thanks svxcess for the SubaruParts directions, thanks gwarusee for the heads up in the first place and the new heads up on the rear cladding - it's next ( the parts pictorial on SubaruParts.com shows me how to get it off!) , and thanks michael for the advise on removing the rear bumper - I'll get to it soon.
I've spent close to $4G this spring in restorations and I'm just about done for this year. Next year a paint job and a little engine work including a lightweight crank pulley, an intake modification and if the budget allows some Delta cams.
Owning a rare car like the SVX is a little scary sometimes, but this network is an absolute God send!