i guess Beav's diagnosis will have to do. we'll have to live with this. i have applied several Techron treatments, cleaned the TB, replaced spark plugs, PCV, air and fuel filters. i may clean the MAF at some point, but i guess i'll just learn to deal with the "cold hesitation."

Alan

look in the Motor Vac post. This might be worth a try since Commuter SVX had his hesitation solved that way.

I found the solution. I put massive amounts of every fuel system cleaner I could find in my tank (separately, of course), and did a MotorVac CarbonClean treatment, which was useless compared to the in the bottle cleaners. Anyway,

NO MORE HESITATION EVER. Never ever ever ever in like a month, AND, once i didn't use the car for 4 days last week, and i expected it to hesitate...guess what? It started instantly, and there wasn't a hint of hesitation. I'm thrilled...now how bout my 10 MPG problems???

You've got a serious fuel problem, it's readily apparent from your post in another thread stating that your tailpipes are black and sooty inside. That can only indicate raw, poorly burnt (or un-burnt) fuel.

If you're convinced you've checked all the basics that your abilities allow I'd suggest bucking up and taking the car to a driveability specialist. Remember, if there's that much excess fuel coming out the tailpipe there's also going to be excess fuel washing down the cylinder walls and going past the piston rings and diluting the engine oil, which doesn't do the bearings much good either.

Egine bog down and 10MPG
 

Hey GUys..
I also have a 92 and have the same problem. my Fix was to simply let it warm up.. Even if I give it a min to do so... If you ait an extra minute the Rpm's will start to drop a bit as the car wwarms up... Beav is 100 COrrect about the wait time between loop and open loop..
what my car does, if right after start up, if I give it a minute.. It's BOgs at anything over 2k rpms'.. Even if you give it more gas, it lags for just a sec, and takes off..
let it warm up.... ALL the suggestions of Sprak plugs, filters, and TB cleaning.. Can also cause this.. the SVX requires a little more care in those are then some cars, but well worth it.. Keep up the maintenance and it will take of you..

THe 10 mpg problem....... You do have something going on.
goes without saying..
I would look into having your fuel injectors cleaned and the Throttle body cleaned as well.. Reset your computer. CHange the fuel filter is it hasn't been change in a while.. Stop pouring so much Techron in your tank.. Techron is a good fuel additive, but TOO much will foul the plugs..
Too much of many of those cleaners in the tank, at once will cause excessive plug deposites.. which give poor mpg, loss of power Etc.....

BG44k, Red line Fuel system cleaner, are top quality products..
MIght want to try them .. GM corp... Did a study on redline products.. THe results were very favorable in all of Gm's engines.
as they were very quick to build up carbon deposites. The red line cleaner broke those down the best and from the study gave the best results.
another thing Beav mentioned.. THe thinning of your oil by possible blow by.. you need to address this 10 MPG thing ASAP as this is asking for greif down the road in the not so distant future.

there is a rather simple procedure to cleaning the injectors.. However it works much better when they are done on a machine that maintains the proper Psi during the cleaning cycle.
best of luck
SVX1999

i accept Beav's explanation and just deal with this. i can't, however, imagine going into a dealer 5 or 6 years ago, driving a brand new SVX off the lot for a test drive, have it do this hesistating thing for the first 5-10 sec., and then want to pay $36,000 to take it home. :mad: maybe i'll try the Motorvac....

just to rain on everyones parade that is having this problem, I don't have anything like this going on in my car. Almost every morning I leave my apartment with about 10 minutes to drive to campus, find a parking spot, and hop on the bus to class. I don't have the time to let the car warm up, and lots of times coming out of the apartment complex it is pretty busy, so I often have to accelerate hard after the engine running only about 20 seconds. I have never had it act any differently than it does after it's been running for a long time.

I wish I had some suggestions on what to check, but everything I can think of has already been covered. (I know that changing the air filter has been mentioned, and I found with my K & N filter I have to clean it every 5,000 miles, yes five thousand not fifty thousand like they say, or else the performance starts to drop.)

I also have some weird stuff going on with my mpg. No matter how hard or gentle I drive, whether it be a 700 mile interstate trip, or racing around town, going to autocrosses, my car NEVER is more than .5 mpg off from 21. I don't mind this much as when I drive my mom's sentra it usually gets around 24 if I drive it the same way I do this one. (my mom gets around 36)

When I offered my comments on allowing the engine to warm a bit, I was assuming that y'all were experiencing a slight to moderate 'sluggishness'. I find it hard to believe that anyone is so pressed for time that they can't wait 20-30 seconds after starting their car for it to at least build oil pressure, let alone clear its throat before having the pedal mashed to the floor. Oh well, to each their own...

Anyway, my current car operates exactly as I remember my original in '92 car. For the first minute or two it doesn't have anywhere near the same response as it does when fully warmed, but then again I don't normally jump on it while it's cold. It isn't close to stalling by any means, but it doesn't have a full head of steam either. To tell you the truth my lawn tractor acts exactly the same way, maybe it's just my inability to properly tune an engine... :)

I had the same problem.
 

I took off the airbox attached to the trottle body. Bought a few cans of carb cleaner and sprayed away. I made sure I opened the throttle body and cleaned all around the throttle plate and the back of the plate. I then started the car and continued spraying. The car will idle.

Never had the problem again.

Oh, I also changed the fuel filter.

I think you nailed it on the head with the fuel filter. About 4 years ago I had a 85 Honda Accord and it had similar problems. After several things that didn't help I replaced the fuel filters because they were on clearance at Walmart (?) for 25 cents. This got rid of it right away.

Oh, if you do end up doing this, do not try to use any kind of plastic container besides a gas can to catch the spilling gas. (after about 45 seconds when I no longer was paying attention the gas ate through the container that I think was a milk jug and spilled gas all over my car's engine compartment. Luckily I started doing this about 30 minutes after I drove for a long time, but before I got too far into it I was interrupted for an hour by a phone call.

maybe we all don't have the exact same problem. here's mine in more detail - when the engine is cold, and i press the accelerator, the pedal feels "digital" (gas, press further hesistate, gas, hesitate, etc.). this lasts for a total of maybe 5-10 seconds, then all is good.

for the record, i try to give it a short warm-up, and i never exceed 3000rpms until the engine is up to operating temp.

i have replaced spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, cleaned MAF, cleaned throttle body (P.O., around 4k mi ago), and did a few Techron treatments. it idles fine.

it not really even that big of a deal, but i'm just curious as to what's causing it more than anything. :confused:

:) when i did my fuel filter, i disco'd the fuel pump and let the car sit awhile. even then, when i un-did the hose, a small squirt of gas managed to shoot right over my catch-container and onto my headlight, instantly covering it with small spider-cracks. next time, towels, tarps, and newspapers everywhere! now i'm patiently waiting for the smallcar.com replacement headlights :(

Landshark
 

Admittedly, I didn't read ALL the replies to this thread, but you dodn't mention anything about replacing the O2 sensors ot the temp sensor.

As I said, I didn't read all the replies in detail, so maybe I missed it. The temp sensor made a big difference in my initial start-up. It is also pretty cheap and easy to replace. Your cars computer could be reading a "warm" signal until it is warmed up a bit. This will make it run lean until you get closer to operating temperature. I think I paid $15 for the sensor. Also, the O2 sensors may not be up to par. If they are reacting slow from being old, you could also experience a hesitation.

Just a few random thoughts.

WOW!
 

After reading a few more of these posts, nobody mentioned replacing the temp sensor.

Maybe a few more of you would like to try this. Mine was off specs when the car had 60k miles on it. They are easy to replace and cheap. Make sure you replace the computer temp sensor and not the fan temp sensor.