roll pin punch
 

I have done a hundred searches on cv joints so no one yell at me, but I am having a hard time finding any DIAGRAMS of half shaft removal. I have got the general idea, but what is the best means of removing the roll pin? And what size punch would you use? Are there any other tools I should be aware of? If anyone has a link to pics of removal using the three bolt method please post them, I already have the shafts, I just need a point in the right direction.

Thanks,
Crash

Not sure on the right size, but you want one that has a small diameter to slide in to the in side of the pin and then it bulges out to the right size to push it through. I always have used this tiny screw driver.

roll pin
 

Crash,
I just pulled my shafts,(tranny coming out, again). I used a 3/16" drift punch to tap the pins out. Even a medium sized phillips screwdriver would work fine. NOT hard to reach or very 'stuck'. Very simple.
I personally don't undo the '3 bolts'. I undo the control arm mounting points instead. It is a 19mm socket to undo the bolts going thru this point and a 17mm to undo the rear cradle bolts. This will make sense when you're under there. Just don't undo both sides of the cradle at the same time. Just do one shaft, then the other. Good lock!!
mile-hi-bri

I used a 10d nail with the point ground off. It fit real nice in the small hole of the shaft to knock the pin out.

I've used a drift punch, but I think I've used mostly an old screwdriver of mine with about a 3/16" dia. shaft that I ground off flush/square. (The tip was hatched anyway) Just drive home with a small hammer.

The trickiest part is always getting the 'right' spline slid on so the holes are aligned correctly. The same punch/rod can be slid through the assembly with no interference if you've correctly lined them up. I usually try to have the hole lined up vertically so I can 'eyeball' it first.

Good Luck. Have fun.

-Mark

I use a 1/4" drift punch....works pretty good, but is "almost" to big...

I have a set of punches I bought at Sears. In my opinion, the right tool is worth having even if you only use it occasionally.

I just used an allen wrench that fit - :eek:

Like Nick said, it is better to have the proper tool for the job. A set of punches do not cost much. I have done quite a few cv shafts recently where the pin was rusted in place.
If you come across that problem you are going to have a difficult time using a nail,screwdriver or other improper tool.

Re: roll pin punch--big trouble
 

I resurrect this thread with the same problem. Roll pin is broke and severely stuck. It seems to have broke off just inside the diameter of the cv axle and the hole is slightly misaligned so no matter which way I try to push it won't budge. I broke one punch, then tried to drill it out and broke two drill bits off. This has delayed me two days now.

I have extra axles and thought about just removing the outer end from the hub and taking the whole axle out with the tranny. I can't get the axle nut off though.

How hard is it to disassemble/reassemble the inner cv joint? I'm thinking that might be the easiest solution.

Re: roll pin punch--big trouble
 

The last axle I replaced had the roll pin stuck. If you get a prybar you can pop the inner joint away from the trans and it will pull the axle stub out of the trans.

Then with the axle out of the car I was able to get it into a vise and work at getting the pin out. If you have any scrap trannies around, just pull the stub out and replace it.

Re: roll pin punch
 

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=53991

How to replace the CV joint .. I used this and had no trouble

Re: roll pin punch
 

Sorry if I missed it, but there is a right and wrong direction to drive out the pin... Was in a rush and could have just looked over that part of it...

Keith:cool:

Re: roll pin punch
 

There is a depression in one side of the CV that makes it easier to start the pin. But if you can get it started in the other side it will be fine.

Also the axle can only go on in one direction. If the axle is 180* off the hole in the axle and the hole in the stub will be 1/2 a spline off.

Re: roll pin punch
 

It's way beyond being this simple.

The holes are most certainly not aligned so this might be what was done. I'm dealing with previous owner's screw-up. Pin was already broke off before I messed with it.