Engine and Transaxle Removal
 

Hey guys, I was going to ask advice of anyone who has pulled the SVX engine or transmission. I am removing the last bits and pieces of my parts car this weekend before the body goes somewhere else.

- Any tips or suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated.

- Are there any specialty tools I'll need? :confused: for the tough stuff I'm bringing an air compressor, impact wrench / sockets, air ratchet and breaker bar along w/ my craftsman homeowner's set of ratchets and sockets.

- I will have an engine crane and a pickup which I'm renting for the day. Thinking 'll set the engine in a deflated tire as suggested by one of my buddies.

- This will be the first time I have EVER removed an entire engine and tranny from a car and ANY suggestions / tips are greatly appreciated.

:D THANK YOU :D

I just got finished removing my engine and I can't think of any special tools you'd need. Just have plenty of sockets - std and deep well and extensions.

hmm...no special tools really...Im wondering if it would be easier to take the whole assembly out as a whole? I've done the engine and tranny many times but never together. I feel the tranny is easier but thats just me. Take your time and have fun..just post here if you have any questions there are quite a few of us now who have taken these components out.

the best part about working on a subaru is that you need 6 sockets and 3 wrenches. 10mm 12mm and 14mm both deep and shallow. You will need other sizes also but these are the most common. you will need the wrenches in the same size.

Tom(simplicity is key)

A 3/16" punch is needed to remove the pins holding the axles to the stubs.

Other than that Tom is right about the tool list. Use your extensions wisely, the easiest way to get the socket in there is not always obvious.

Truer words have never been spoken.

Tom

For the transmission;
While it’s on the ground, disconnect the battery, and remove the starter from the car, if you leave it under the hood it will find a way to jam against the bellhousing.

Remove the alternator and belt. This allows you to access the four 14mm torque converter bolts. I used a two foot long 3/8” extension with the socket taped to the extension, so that it would not pull off.

Remove the plastic airbox that attaches to the throttle body. This allows access to the two round, and two square electrical plugs, that must be disconnected.

Disconnect the three wire connector to the svx speed sensor, located on the passenger side of the transmission, behind the bellhousing.

Remove the upper transmission mount, it’s the dog bone shaped mount that goes from the firewall to the top of the bellhousing.

Jack up the svx to where you can work on it safely, Use a garage lift if possible.

Drain the transmission fluid from the transmission pan. You will get more than six quarts if you let it drain for hours

Drain the rear end.

Unplug the oxygen sensors, by pulling lightly on the wires, and with a standard blade screwdriver prying out on the locking clip. They should pop out easily.

Remove the complete exhaust system, from the muffler up to the factory cast headers. Don’t forget the ground wire at the right tailpipe.

Remove the complete driveshaft, including the carrier bearing.

There four bolts,(vertical) and two nuts(horizontal) holding the rear end in..

You can slide the rear end away from the axles, one at a time. Watch for very thin wire C clips on the axles. With the first axle, you might need to pry lightly on the axle flange to get it started. On the second one, you can use the rear end like a slide hammer to remove the rear from the axle.

Drive the roll-pins out of the axles,(near the front differential) and remove the bolts that hold the lower ball joints to the steering knuckle. Tap downward on the lower control arm, and pull out on the bottom of the front tires, (one at a time) this will pull the axles off of the differential stub shafts. Once off the stub shafts, you can let them hang out of the way.

Remove the one inch thick tubular bar that connects the left and right frame rails, located behind the front differential, and in front of the transmission pan.

Remove the six bolts, and one nut that attach the rear transmission mount.

Disconnect the transmission cable from the linkage on the passenger side of the transmission. NOTE, if the bushing breaks, it’s ok to replace the bushing with a short piece of 5/16” fuel line.

Disconnect the transmission cooler lines on the drivers’ side of the transmission. Good luck with this.

Support the transmission with an appropriate jack. A 4EAT tranny weighs about 250 pounds, and can cut off a finger faster than you can say,”woops”.

You can now remove the two bolts, and two nuts that bolt the transmission to the engine, thru the bellhousing.

You might have to jack up the front of the engine, to support it, and to allow clearance for the transmission to be removed.

Shake the transmission tailshaft while pulling it toward the rear of the car.

If you need to pry against the bellhousing, be careful not to dent or crush the power steering lines. If you have everything disconnected, the transmission should come out. BE CAREFUL.

I would pull them seperately for safety. Tom.

i think it would be eaier to pull the engine first and then drop the trans. MPO.

TOm

I agree, but I allready had the write-up on hand :o .

And it's never bad to have a list you can cross off. Tom.