TPS Spec Range???
 

Th 92 teal just started to flare(about 1000rpm, and then catch the third) btw 2-3 shift during only very light throttle input. I know it could be TPS, band adjustment and/or the dropping resistor, possible solenoid A?
I did the band adjustment, that didnt help. Swap the resistor with 92 black(which shift nicely)still have that flare. Swap the TPS as well, set the spec to 0.5V and I still have that flare:mad:
Would it help if I set it to the MIN or MAX of the spec? The manual says the spec should be btw 0.45 to 0.55V.
Please advice
Thanks

I can not agree that there is a relationship between the TPS and the fault you describe, even though the description is rather vague. Likewise the dropping resistor.

Solenoid A regulates line pressure and could be a suspect item. Please describe the flare more accurately. Does this indicate that it occurs in the first ratio? :confused: (about 1000rpm, and then catch the third)

When the trany is ready to shift from 2 to 3 @ about 2000 rpm, you would see the rpm needle goes to about 3000rpm(1000rpm flare or free wheeling)), then catch the 3rd.
Only happen in very light throttle input. Does not flare during aggressive driving.
Curious if I can adjust the TPS to max or min to alter the shift rpm from 2 to 3
:confused:
Thanks

test the middle wire on the TPS sensor clip. It should be white in color. Stock at idle is .50v but can be from .48v to .50v. More importantly, make sure it has a smooth increase in voltage as the throttle plates are opened.

I do agree with Trevor, if your transmission is shifting, that means the TPS should be working properly. You could be low on line pressure due to a solenoid A fault... Do you have any transmission codes showing??

Tom

In view of the fact that the application of power does not cause slip, one could well expect that the TPS is faulty in initial positions, which is where most wear will take place. Have a look at the cleaning and setting instructions in the how too section if you have not already done so, as this will provide an insight into the workings of the TPS.

You advise that you have transposed the original TPS with another, which I gather (please confirm) was proven in second car as perfectly OK. However both could be suspect, in which case this would not be the first time that test by substitution has been found wanting.

The TPS does not directly control anything and simply comprises a source of an input signal to the ECU and TCU. The shift point is established on the basis of several criteria, with throttle position being only part of the equation.

A good thing us that as there is no slip under power, this would indicate that a serious and costly fault is not likely to be involved. :)

Strange Finding
 

I dont have TCU codes.
One thing I did noticed was that when setting TPS to 0.5V, I had the ground probe touching the throttle body and positive probe inserted to white wire at the socket connector. But if I put negative probe to the negative post at the battery, it would read 0.53V:confused:
Whats the correct way of doing the setting? and where the extra 0.3V from(correction,I mean 0.03V)???
What are the chances that solenoid A going bad? According Trevor's tech articles(BTW, thanks Trevor) its pretty common???:eek:. It could be the case because the car was sitting in a junk yard for over 4 years with unknown codition ATF in the trany and could be all cake up inside:confused:
Thanks a lot for all the suggestions and please keep them coming.

Whats the correct way of doing the setting? and where the extra 0.3V from???

Please help yourself and read the advice previously presented and which has taken some time to compile. Therein it is suggested that you read the how too instructions. ;)

I gather you mean 0.03 volts, rather than 0.3 volts as causing confusion. Obviously there is a small resistance in the electrical path from battery negative to the throttle body. The very small discrepancy is of no concern. The manual quotes a figure of 0.45 - 0.55 volts.

You must properly investigate the most likely causes established on a logical basis, first. Further suggestions of obscure possibilities will lead things even further off course. It is now up to you. :D

Usually, Solenoid A doesn't go bad, the resistor behind the battery does. And when either goes bad (again, likely the resistor) the TCU will throw a Code 11. You have no codes, so chances are that this problem does not lie in the transmission at all. I trust you did get the transmission flushed with new fluid?

Bad transmission denial is a ugly thing....

Update
 

I took the throttle body off the car to clean as well as the TPS. Put everything back on, set TPS to 0.48V (grounded at negative battery post).
It seems cured the light throtle flare btw 2 to 3. I tried at least 20 times and I couldnt get it to flare:). Also test drive on highway for over 60 miles and everything is how it suppose to be. So I guess a simple cleanning did it for me. BTW, I did have fresh ATF in it, thats the first thing I did when igot the car.
Thanks everyone for the help!

[QUOTE=pearlm30;535062]I took the throttle body off the car to clean as well as the TPS. Put everything back on, set TPS to 0.48V (grounded at negative battery post).
It seems cured the light throtle flare btw 2 to 3. I tried at least 20 times and I couldnt get it to flare:). Also test drive on highway for over 60 miles and everything is how it suppose to be. So I guess a simple cleanning did it for me. BTW, I did have fresh ATF in it, thats the first thing I did when igot the car.
Thanks everyone for the help![/QUOTE

Good one. What did I tell you. ;) Thanks for the thanks. :D

My car does pretty much the same thing, and it has a fairly new factory rebuilt tranny in it (Not sure exactly how many miles, but I figure 20,000 tops) Guess my next step is to plug the Select Monitor in and see what the TPS does :-)

I doubt that the select monitor can provide definitive evidence relative to an intermittent change in the resistance curve of the TPS, as it moves/operates.

I was just referring to the settings of the TPS, I'll use a scope to check the resistance curve :)

Subaru rebuilt transmisions are...
 

Guaranteed 2 years... 24 months by the dealers