O-ring fix in Aredubjay's locker
 

Aredubjay,
I've read through stome of the archives on the PS o ring fix and saw a reference to your locker. When I try to open the file, my stupid PC doesn't know what type of program to use to open them. I didn't just guess, 'cause if I guess wrong, the PC uses this program to open that file type for evermore -- even if it doesn't work. So, do you remember/know what type of program is needed to open these pics into?

Thanks a lot.

replace the .wpd with .doc and you will get the following text ---

Replacing O ring between reservoir and pump:

TOOLS YOU’LL NEED: T40 TORX, 10MM SOCKET, 11MM SOCKET, PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER, 6" SOCKET EXTENSION

First, remove the drive belt cover (two torx screws on top some have I think hex heads). Once the screws are removed, slide the cover toward the front of the car. It's on a fitted bracket, so, pulling up on it will only frustrate you 'til you've figured out to slide it forward (from experience). Then, remove the cap from the reservoir, pull out the screen, then, using a turkey baster (or, I used a well rinsed hand lotion pump with a piece of flexible aquarium tubing pumping into a coffee can), remove the fluid from the reservoir. Once the fluid is removed, take out the two torx bolts on top of the reservoir and remove the (I think) 13mm hex bolt that anchors the reservoir to the engine block. Remove the clamp on the return hose (being careful not to spill fluid on the belts. There will still be fluid in the hose) and remove the reservoir. On the underside of the reservoir is about a 1/8 inch "pipe" (more like a slight protrusion). If
there are remnants of an old O ring, peel them off and discard them. Replace the O ring. Assembly is the reverse of above (it's that simple). Replace fluid with fresh Dexron III ATF. A couple of notes: be careful when replacing the bolts, not to over torque them. The aluminum in the engine block is soft and easy to strip out. Also, the O ring is a 3.00 part from your Suby dealer. Just ask them for "the o ring that goes between the PS pump and the reservoir" they'll know what you mean. Of course, if you're not particular about OEM (Part # 062610110), go to Pep Boys or other auto supply store, buy the "assorted O ring" package for about a buck fifty. When you have the reservoir off, sort through them to find the correct size and install it. Use the remainder for orthodantia bands or something else you've still saved yourself some bucks. Once
you've re filled the reservoir, start the car, run the steering lock to lock a few times, then, recheck the fluid level add if necessary. Voila!


Enjoy
Lwin

O-Ring Fix
 

Very well documented! My question is, what is this fix for? What I mean is, is this for when the steering goes bad and it is most likely the O-ring, or is this more along the lines of an "improvement mod" and something everyone should look into?

Re: O-Ring Fix
 

If your steering is shuddering at low speeds and making lots o' noise, then, it's probably the O-ring. It has been a common difficulty with the SVX, and many have replaced entire pumps (at the recommendation of their dealer) at great cost, for need of a 3.00 o-ring and about a half hour of time. It's definitely a cheap "trouble shoot" if you think your pump is going bad.

Re: Re: O-Ring Fix
 

What about if the steering gets sluggish when you've been driving it for awhile? Say like after doing a 30min drive on a back contry road and then going through a parking lot and trying to park in a tight spot it is rather hard to turn the wheel.

Re: Re: Re: O-Ring Fix
 

That could possibly be the o-ring. It could also possibly mean your fluid is terribly old. If you're going to replace the fluid, you may as well replace the o-ring as a CYA measure. Otherwise, you could just pump out as much old fluid as you can, and replace the fluid -- see if that helps.

Re: Re: Re: O-Ring Fix
 

Can't the fluid getting too hot cause a fade as well?

Thanks Randy. I haven't noticed any major problems, but sounds like a good tune up project. Add that to my list with the alternator wiring upgrade, silicon hoses (been sitting in the closet for 4 months now), and a nice engine cleaning. All this waiting for new hood supports, think I'm finally going to break down and buy new ones from subaruparts.com. (yes I know, I could just prop it up with a stick, but what fun would that be? :D )

Of course I still have that matter of a failing wheel bearing and now the newest addition of body work. (more on that later):mad:

O-Ring Fix
 

I did this just about 2 weeks ago. My res was overflowing constantly. The o-ring was allowing air to get sucked in and caused bubbles in the fluid.

After doing the fix the res no longer bubbles over and the new fluid feels great on the steering. I drive the car 4+ hours a day in high heat as well and I have never felt the hard to turn at slow speeds.

I can tell you that my O-ring was very hard and mis-shaped when i pulled it out. So mis-shapen that I had to IM Randy and ask if i was about to cut off the right thing. I was correct and with the new o-ring and the new fluid I am VERY happy.

Thanx

PS. There is a new personal locker called How-To's. Get your how-tos to Aredubjay and Chris and they can get them put in there.

Re: Re: Re: Re: O-Ring Fix
 

Definitely, but, the reasons for it overheating are A) Bad pump B) Old fluid. The cheap route is to change the fluid (and the o-ring) and see if that fixes it. Then . . . well, we ALL hope the O-ring fixes it. :D

o ring fix done
 

Thanks to all for the info. I did the o ring fix today in about 45 minutes. The insturctious were well written. My old ring was pathetic (flattened and cracked.). The steering is much better now.

Thanks again.

Re: o ring fix done
 

Phew! Thank you ehyde. Since I'm a writer, by trade, that IS good to know. :D:D:D