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-   -   Inner tie rod end parts (https://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32575)

SVX10 04-10-2006 11:00 AM

Inner tie rod end parts
 
Guys,
What parts do I need from this diagram in order to replace my inner tie rod ends? Just 4 & 5?

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/SVX10/35174.gif

Thanks,
Mat

SubyLuver 04-10-2006 07:34 PM

It either 2 or 3, wait no those are outers...... (edit)

SomethingElse 04-10-2006 08:05 PM

I hate these
 
I had a bad experience with inner tie rods:mad: ...after i replaced them my rack began to leak and my boots pop everytime i turn. it all just gets brittle and once you disturb it you may as well throw it out. Im going to attempt a rebuild here shortly on one of my parts cars racks so ill look and see what seals to get too....The parts to get are both boots and both clamps that hold the boots on. my car had shims in beetween the inner end and the rack they broke on removal so thats your call.;)

SVX10 04-11-2006 12:39 PM

Were those shims the thin, round pieces of metal that butt up against the inner side of the cup that screws over the outside end of the rack? I couldn't get those loose when I was trying to just adjust the tie rod ends.
Also, how did you find out your rack was leaking? Fluid in the boots, or what? As for boots, I'm just going to keep the ones I have now. I've heard the new ones are a loud and pop. I don't want that.

SomethingElse 04-13-2006 06:10 PM

Nice Rack
 
The shims are round and they go beetween the inner tie rod and the rack. Im not 100% sure or not if they are shims or some sort of lock washers. When I pulled the boots off is when I noticed I had a minor amount of fluid in their. I used saftey wire and Gasket crap but they seem to leak worse...now on my exhaust. My old boots pop. I was thinking of putting a vent in them but they didnt have one before and they never popped then so the next logical step would be to replace the brittle noise makers. When at a dealer they do the ends and the boots.

Oh yea and blue loctite never hurts:)

drivemusicnow 06-08-2006 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kulaid
The shims are round and they go beetween the inner tie rod and the rack. Im not 100% sure or not if they are shims or some sort of lock washers. When I pulled the boots off is when I noticed I had a minor amount of fluid in their. I used saftey wire and Gasket crap but they seem to leak worse...now on my exhaust. My old boots pop. I was thinking of putting a vent in them but they didnt have one before and they never popped then so the next logical step would be to replace the brittle noise makers. When at a dealer they do the ends and the boots.

Oh yea and blue loctite never hurts:)


Where can I get those lock washers? I'm in the middle of replacing mine, and of course they don't come with new lock washers.

I also need the "adjustment nut" that locks the outer tie rod in place, as adjusted. If anyone could provide me with part numbers, or where I could order and get as soon as possible I"d appreciate it. I have no idea what to call them and 1st subaru parts doesn't have them.

*just for reference, you can replace both your inner and outer tie rods without too much effort at the same time. I had no choice as the nut had been cross threaded and the tie rods were bent. I can do a write up later.

The parts you need are the "inner tie rod" the "outer tie rod" the adjustment nut and the lock washer. You do destroy the lock washer on the way out, you may be able to use the adjustment/locking nut.

drivemusicnow 06-08-2006 11:31 PM

Sooo, I'm getting the feeling that: A) I'm not going to be able to get a new lock washer, and B) I'm not going to be able to get an OEM lock nut...

SOO, if anyone has a parts car, or can find this information using their vast Subie resources, could give me the dimensions on the nut that I need, and whether it is reverse thread or not.

I'm thinking I'll just have to get some lock-tite and use the destroyed lock washers. The lock tight should hold, however I'm not a very big fan of have that hold my tie rod in.

**Tip #1: Never let your sister drive your car in the snow. It may result in bent tie rods.

drivemusicnow 06-09-2006 11:28 AM

Bueller... Bueller.


Will this work? the only other idea I can come up with is to try and create some lock washers out of 1/16th steel. Truthfully my dremel skills just aren't all that good, not that the part is really complicated...

Any information on that nut? Otherwise I think I just have to take the outer tie rod to a hardware store and find the best bolt I can that is SS/Nylock and screws on correctly.

SVX10 06-10-2006 11:09 AM

Greg...what the heck are you talking about in that last post??:p

I'd be glad to help you out. Here's all the part numbers for the entire job. I don't think you can buy the lock washer separately. Don't you have your old one to reference for dimensions, or have you not taken it off yet? I just re-used my old ones.

Inner tie rod left - 34140PA010
Inner tie rod right - 34140PA000
Outer tie rod left - 34141PA000
Outer tie rod right - 34141PA010
Adjustment nut - 34136PA010


The lock washer MAY be part # 31260GA260, but it's hard to tell from the picture. It's only $2 at subaruparts.com, so maybe it's worth it to just get 2 in case. There's also a "repair kit" with seals and stuff for $49, part # 34128PA000...it might contain the washer. It's too hard to tell from the pic.

Any other questions just let me know.

drivemusicnow 06-13-2006 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVX10
Greg...what the heck are you talking about in that last post??:p

I'd be glad to help you out. Here's all the part numbers for the entire job. I don't think you can buy the lock washer separately. Don't you have your old one to reference for dimensions, or have you not taken it off yet? I just re-used my old ones.

Inner tie rod left - 34140PA010
Inner tie rod right - 34140PA000
Outer tie rod left - 34141PA000
Outer tie rod right - 34141PA010
Adjustment nut - 34136PA010


The lock washer MAY be part # 31260GA260, but it's hard to tell from the picture. It's only $2 at subaruparts.com, so maybe it's worth it to just get 2 in case. There's also a "repair kit" with seals and stuff for $49, part # 34128PA000...it might contain the washer. It's too hard to tell from the pic.

Any other questions just let me know.


I was talking about the lock washer and the adjustment nut. I found an adjustment nut at Ace hardware (nice metric section), and I fabricated a lock washer out of a thin SS washer using a dremel, a hammer and a punch. If i had realized that I was supposed to use a punch to flatten the lock washer before trying to remove the inner tie rods, they probably would have come out easier, and I probably could have re-used the originals.

When I called the subie dealership, they said you can only get the lockwasher in the "A" kit on the drawing which was like 60$.. I said eff it and went to Ace hardware.

SVX10 06-14-2006 12:07 AM

sweet...sounds like you got it all taken care of. It's really pretty simple.

drivemusicnow 06-14-2006 11:44 PM

Now I get to do balljoints, a knock sensor, and replacing the tires that the tie rods effed up.


And this is my "reliable daily driver"...:rolleyes:

It's taking all the money I had saved up to build my engine for my race car... :rolleyes:


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