Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

Hello,

In this morning, I found my 94 SVX LSi (~140K miles) engine cranks but does not catch the fire. In recent days, engine occasionally died on idle before it warmed up, but never after warm-up. I have not used the car for 4-5 days and now it doesn't start. The check engine light codes are

11 crank angle sensor
16 Fuel Injector no 3
19 Fuel Injector no 6
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit No.1 right side

I have noticed that 11 has appeared intermittently before but at that time I didn't have other issue. Kind of suspcious whether all three parts break down at the same time.
What would be most efficient course of action for me?
Thanks!
-John

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

I would aim for the crank sensor first. Pull it out clean any metal dust off the face of it. Check the winding for an open or short.
If all else fails, fit a new one.

Harvey.

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

+1
Crank sensor if faulty or full of metal dust/particles will not allow the car to start.

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

Crank sensor, No. 1 is the one circled in Red. It is the SVX only one, not the same as the cam sensor, and the one circled in Blue.



http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...etkd/36328.jpg


Harvey.

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

Thanks for the suggestion and picture! Crank sensor would have been my last pick!
It appears to be under alternator, but do I need to remove crank pully to get access to it? Hope not....

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

No, check the how to section in the top left. Find the one titled alternator removal. Its pretty easy and straight forward.

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

So I have replaced the crank sensor with used one from Dan r, but engine still stalls exactly same way, codes are same as before, 11 16 19 32, even after disconnecting battery for a few minutes.

What bothers me is that cranks sensor code 11 is still there even though the sensor itself and the wire to the sensor seem to be fine.

The measured resistance across the sensor is 2.5kohn similar to cam sensor right next to it and the resistance accross the wire to the crank sensor is ~80kohm which is same as that of the wire to the cam sensor. Since I have no code on cam sensor, can I assume the wire and crank sensor is fine?

If so, what part before the wire and sensor itself could cause engine stall?

Thanks!

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

fix the oxygen sensor, it may fix the others...............................

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

A crank angle sensor 1 code will register anytime the ecu reads two or more crank sensor 2 signals without a crank sensor 1 in between. Sometimes when the engine stalls it will throw a code for a crank sensor. In my blue car I have seen this code pop up from just clutching out (always code 11 when it did).

I'm not sure where I'd go from here but I'll think about it again in the morning.

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

I also think oxygen sensor is next to target if crank sensor code was removed, but would like to find out what's going on with crank sensor / circuit first. 11 was the one that appeared first, on and off a while before engine failed to start. At that time engine would start no problem but occasionally it would die at idle before it warms up.
Wondering whether there is one defective part that is not oxygen sensor, crank sensor or fuel injectors and is causing problem.

Any idea or previous experience would greatly appreciated!

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

any idea about crank sensor behavior? Thanks!

Re: Engine Stall, Multiple Codes What to attack first..
 

Out of all those codes, the crank sensor is the one that would stop it from starting, but if it did start, the crank sensor won't make it stall again. The fault with those sensors is that they have a magnet in them, that can weaken with time, so that when the engine is turning slowly the out-put from the unit is low. When it is running the out-put increases, so it will keep going.

For all those codes to come back again, there has to be a common fault. like the wiring plugs at the rear of the engine, that all these signals run through, may be loose.
Or it could be the grounding of the engine block, that is at fault. Bad grounding causes signals to be interfered with, so that the ECU can't read the signal, this happens to analog signals like the crank sensor.

The battery to body ground at the front of the battery. The ground at the rear of the engine block under the Dogbone link, and the inlet manifold ground at the left rear of the inlet manifold.

Have a good look at them all, give them a wriggle to see if they are loose.
Check the ground wire bolts for good contact.


Harvey.