Alternator mod mess(inherited problems...)
 

So the SVX is down again thanks the previous owners interpretable alternator mod. Ive searched both forums and have not seen another setup that remotely resembles this one. The main problem seems to come from the distribution block that takes the big(4 gauge?) wire from the alternator and splits it into two 14-10 gauge wires. One of the wires goes into the loom that comes from the fender by the battery. The other one disappears into the bottom of the fuse box. The distribution block seems to be getting very hot and causing the plastic housing to melt. If I cant figure it out with your help, what do you think it would cost to get this redone the right way? Thank you

More wires coming from the alternator than seem necessary.
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0ce5a901.jpg

Distribution block where the 4 gauge goes in an the two 14-10 gauge wires come out.
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/...ps23e23244.jpg

None of the wires from the alternator go to the battery terminals like the other mods I have seen.
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/...ps77395572.jpg

Re: Alternator mod mess(inherited problems...)
 

First of all, what are the amp ratings of your fuses? What are your electrical symptoms?

AGU (glass) fuses are definitely a no-no in this situation. They may be okay for stereo systems that have peak power demands occasionally, but not for continuous high-amp operation such as the alternator. All of the alternator current flows through the thin piece of metal inside the glass fuse. Without ventilation, these fuses get quite hot and melt the cases

You are creating a lot of resistance (heat) by using these. What usually happens is the soldered end caps of the fuse usually melt and break contact. I have seen this happen over and over.

Use a 125A slo-blo bolt down MegaFuse from Littelfuse, in the Megafuse holder, available from Amazon.com HERE. The fuses bolt down solidly and are not going to vibrate and come loose, causing arcing.



SVX ALTERNATOR WIRING CONFIGURATION V.4

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...8&d=1270948752


Also available on the Maniac Electric Motors website

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-...adeWireSVX.pdf

There is much more in the electrical section of the How-to documents. See Aternator101 and the MegaFuse rating chart.

PM me for more information or questions. You can always give me a call at four-one-oh, seven 4 six, 677-oh.


As you can see, I have a single 4-gauge wire from the battery to the alternator, through the MegaFuse. This version of the mod has been running for the past 3 years flawlessly in every respect.

Re: Alternator mod mess(inherited problems...)
 

With those exposed, frayed wires at the battery post and the fuse holder, you are asking for an electrical short. They need to be completely insulated and protected.

In a bone-stock system, there would be two white wires, with ring terminals, attached to the alternator under the rubber boot. You could add a 4-gauge wire to that (from the battery to the alternator, through the MegaFuse. Nothing should ever be added directly to the fuse box.

The black and red wires on the left are field and sensing wires FROM the alternator plug and can be moved. The 2 black wires to the right are for the A/C compressor and don't need to be bundled with the alternator wires.


At the distribution box, what is a "14-10" gauge wire? 14 gauge... 10 gauge? Current flow is about balance and less restriction. Two 10 or 14 gauge wires FROM the distribution box is not adequate and cannot efficiently carry the current from the 4 gauge wire going TO the box. ALL your wires, power and ground should be the same gauge.

Simplify your wiring. No wire size changes, excess connections. Connectors crimped solidly and shrink-wrapped

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Re: Alternator mod mess(inherited problems...)
 

In other words, rip out the mod and start over from scratch. Follow the v.4 the instruction found on manic electrics site.
run the alternator plug AND AC. compressors wires under the intake manifold. connect the 2 original 10 gauge wires together.
the two 10 gauge wires run the fans so it its important that they get hooked up or your engine may need a new head gasket. I did this mod for around 50 bucks but it was trial and error so I had to re-buy some supplies Do a search for (alternator mod supplies) and by battery and subwoofer would like to express there thanks, to svxcess for all his discovery and research on this topic.

Re: Alternator mod mess(inherited problems...)
 

You don't even have to go that far. You can leave the wires from the alternator plug where they are and not lengthen them. I just did it to get a cleaner, less cluttered look. Just don't zip-tie them to the alternator cables.

The same with the A/C wires. I did not do anything to them at all. I just left them alone. They don't need to be zip-tied to the alternator either. Look closely at the photos.

You don't even have to join the 2 white wires together. With the new battery cable attached, current will follow the path of least resistance (the larger wire)


All that is necessary is to run the new additional 4 gauge wire (with megafuse) from the battery to the alternator charging post. Use solid crimped connections (not soldered) and insulate well. Use the same 4 gauge wires for the ground wires (from the negative battery terminal to frame ground by the battery) and one to engine ground (Use the bolt at the AC compressor bracket.)

Again, it is all about electrical balance. Your ground wiring should at least equal the positive wiring. Your current path is only as good as the weakest link.



Disconnect whatever wires were added to the fusebox or wiring loom. We are really adding a better ground and path for current, not messing with additional circuitry.

I think your main problem is there, along with the badly-designed fuse system.


Running 2 10-gauge wires in parallel electrically increases the wire gauge by 3 sizes. There is a formula for this and it works with any gauge wire. So these 2 wires together equal a 7 gauge wire. Even doubling the 10-gauge, it is too small to match up with the 4-gauge on the other side of the fuse. Current sharing with wires in parallel is pretty iffy, due to varying and unpredictable contact resistance at each wire end termination.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/gifs/wire.gif
The above image shows the relative difference between 10g and 4g wires (not actual size). You can easily see that doubling the diameter quadruples the cross-sectional area.


The 4 gauge KolossusFleks Kable is the best stuff I have ever found, electrically closer to a 3-gauge. It is super-flexible and can be routed easily (See the 180º turn from the battery terminal to the Megafuse). Every strand is tinned to prevent oxidation and corrosion and reduce resistance.

Available for $1.55 per foot from www.knukonceptzcom

I used the BLACK (actually tranluscent dark smoke) throughout. LINK


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