patching an exhaust leak
I have an exhaust leak on one of my pre-cats, and my inspection is about to be due. I know there is such an animal as an exhaust patch kit, but I was wondering if JBWeld would be able to survive the heat of the exhaust, or some similar product.
any thoughts? Skip |
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You have to cut out the perforated metal pipes, and replace them. Since the pipes are only 1.61 inches in diameter there, you probably have to take it to a welding/exhaust shop that you trust, and have them fix it for you. Hopefully they can fix the rusted tube, or more likely just weld in , say a 1,3/4" tube, about 4" long and just replace the flex coupler. This is assuming you want to do this cheaply.:o |
Hi Tom,
Would flex coupler = exhaust gasket on subaruparts.com? |
Once the exhaust is rusted through, it's pretty tough to weld:o It doesnt ground well, and since it's rusted thin, you tend to burn through alot
give welding it a try, but odds are you're probly better off having someplace make you new front pipes. You can order resonators in place of the cats, and it ends up being fairly inexpensve |
Wouldn't it be nice if we could do a group buy, maybe from SVXFILEs,of the E3 exhaust pipes..(hint,hint...);)
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I've patched small holes and leaks in exhaust with JB Weld. My ex-wife backed into a curbe and severed the pipe between the cat and the muffler. I took a 2" pipe, cut it down the middle, put it over her pipe to hold it together, used 2 hose clamps to hold it in place, jb weld all over it, let it dry, started it, found tiny holes i had missed, patched them, and it was good as new(unless you actually looked at it...)
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I just used some cold weld glue stuff that is good to 2400F. bought it at advanced auto. A friend has it on his car for over six months now and it is holding. The pipe gets cleaned off and then the stuff put on. Then let it sit for 4 hours. It gets rock hard. Then start it up and the heat cures it. The pipe on my SVX is leaking the same place yours is leaking, bottom of the pipe between the heat shield bracket and flange. I'll get the name posted when I get home.
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Mine is doing the exact same thing on the driver's side. Between the cat and the flange. Mine has actually separated and I have to take off the heat shield to see what's rotted through. I'd like to replace the pipe from the cat to the flange, but without a solid one to use as a template, I'm not sure how a pipe bender would get the curve correct.
Eventually I'll take one off the other car and take them both in to have a pipe bent up. Maybe I'll price getting a dozen pipes and sell them to others at cost. I wouldn't hold your breath for them, though. I tend to be a little slow at getting things done. Doug |
If you get some cat to flange pipes, count me in! Will they be mandrel bent or crush?
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This stuff is called "ThermoSteel" CarGo Part# 18003
Made by Blue Magic, Inc Conroe Texas The stuff I left out since Saturday is hard as a rock They claim it can be machined or drilled or sanded just like metal Sand balsting is recommended before application It claims to have no hazarderous chemicals no VOC's Take care, John |
actually, my leak is a split on the seam on the pre-cat, I put jbweld on the seam, and I will see how it does tomorrow I guess.
Skip |
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I'll post the specs before I have any extras made. |
Why not just cut the pre-cats and flanges and replace with straight pipes.
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Anyone know of a source for the precat to main cat flanges, or 1 5/8 OD to 2"ID adapters to splice in a Magnaflow 007? I Google searched, tried JEG's, no luck...
Mine has the condition Tom has described, leaky pipes just before the flanges into main cat. Got a Magnaflow 007 for $65 delived! form Performance Peddlers. |
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