Rear Strut mount replacement
 

I am in need of replacing the rear drivers strut mount. How should I attack this what step come first/last. If you have pictures show em cuz they will prob help. Thnx guys.

from the How To Documents folder (and thanks to mbtoloczko for the write up):

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14310.pdf

ok, so i am going to need a new spring seat and a new mount? i would rather just know that the rattle is gone for good.

I think the answer is - it depends - mostly on if the mount is rusted, or if any of the three mount bolts are broken or ....

However, don't let what I'm saying make you think the sound will go away, I'm not qualified to make that diagnosis, I've just done it (a strut swap) by following the steps in the write-up. Changing the mount requires the same efforts.

ok thnx for the info

Hmm. The strut mount itself is pretty solid. Not much to rattle there. I'm wondering if the strut-to-strut mount bolt has loosened up. This will cause a rattle on bumpy roads and even on old roads are not bumpy but have some coarse asphalt. Could be the spring seat too. If that is heavily corroded, the spring could be vibrating against the strut mount.

I'd second on the strut to mount bolt. I had an obnoxious rattle for about a week, turned out to be that bolt. Just tightening it did not cure the rattle. I actually loosened it, it popped into place, and then I tightened it. No more rattle.

which bolt would this be? the top bolt shown in the subaruparts diagram?

Its the single nut that holds the strut shaft to the strut mount. It goes right through the middle of the strut mount. To get at it, you'll need to remove the speaker tray cover. This in-turn means that you need to remove bottom section of the back seat and the interior panels in the back seat area. The nut is a 17 mm nut, but its deep inside the strut mount. You'll need to find a deep well 17 mm socket that has flats on the outside. You need the flats so that you put a box end wrench on the socket because the hole in the socket is needed so that you can stick a 6 mm allen wrench through the socket and into the top of the shaft to keep the shaft from spinning while you tighten the bolt. All-in-all, its not a difficult job, but its a PITA the first time you do it.

You don't *need* to take out the interior panels. Ifyou just pop the part that overlaps the deck you can work the deck out, but do so carefully.

well i noticed it was tight when i went to tighten it so I loosened it a little and just baked it out of my driveway. This caused a loud rattle so I pulled it back into the garage. I tightened it back down and took it for a spin. The sound is still there with no change at all. I am guessing that the mount or the upper bushing is shot and is letting the spring bang against the retainer. Does this make sense? Should I buy a new mount and upper bushing? thnx for the help.

Tom(upset that i ripped my interior apart for nothing.)

I highly recommend changing not only the driver side but also the passenger side, to keep the car evened... really!

I doubt that the strut mount is causing the noise. It would have to be rusted to the point of failure. Unless the mount is horribly rusted to the point that it has failed structurally, replacement is optional. Mine had some pretty good rust on them, but not enought to weaken them to the point of failure. I choose to replace mine anyhow because I figured that I'm going to have this car for a while.

what about the upper cushion for the spring? Could this be causing the noise?

Could be. Was the sound any louder when you drove around with the rear deck cover removed?