Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

Okay,

So, as many of you know, I recently installed a new Supercharger and new built engine into my SVX. After a few vacuum leak issues I have finally gotten it back and for the last week it has driven fabulously....until yesterday morning.

I went out to get it washed so I could start cleaning her up some (she is still rough to look at) but the car wouldn't start. It would turn over but not start. I tried 3-4 times but got nothing. It seemed like it wasn't getting fuel so I popped the hood to take a look. It was too dark to see anything so I went in to get a flashlight. When I came out there was smoke coming from the engine so I ran over and there as a small fire on the wire bundle going to the driver side injectors.

I ran back into the house to get the fire extinguisher (which didn't work) but it didn't matter as the fire was almost out on its own anyway. I blew out the remnants and looked for damage.

The keys were still in the car and it was set to 'on' so I went to take them out but noticed that nothing was lit up now. The car seemed like there was just no power getting to the car at all.

I checked the fusible link and sure enough it was blown (see pic below).

After reading a little bit on the club it seems the most likely cause is the alternator which kinda ticks me off. Right before I started this whole "rebuilding" gig a couple years ago, I took off my old alternator which was the original one the SVX came with. It has never given me problems but being a 20 year old alternator, I thought it best to get it rebuilt so I'd have one less thing to worry about.

Seeing as Maniac Electric motors is not far from me (about 45 minutes) I took it to them to get it redone. I even had them beef it up to the high output so that I could eventually upgrade the stereo system too. Since then, it had been working fine but realistically its only got like 200 miles on it since it was redone.

I've called AWD Tuning and I'll have it towed back to them tomorrow and I'll call Maniac and see what they can do about this. My concern, however, is a lot of people said on the other threads that something like this can burn out your ECU. So i'm wondering if that is true. I'm running the stage III ECU from ECUTune and i know he is not making these anymore so what other options do I have (worst case scenario).

Eventually I'd like to get a Hydra, but from what I understand, the Hydra plugs into the subaru ECU...is that right? I still have my original ECU, would I use that with the Hydra instead?

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Thanks everyone! :D

Ray

Pics:

Burned Fusible Link: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...3&l=41e9936d7f

Burned Wires: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...3&l=30cf2d6ca3

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

What makes you think alternator?

I'd start by gently pulling the wire bundle open to find the short.

If the ECU (injector drivers) is fried you can modify another stock ECU to take Stage 3 chip.

/T

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

I don't know for certain its the alternator, but all the threads I found about the fusible link frying were due to the alternator regulator being shot.

How would one modify another ECU? Do you mean taking the chip from mine and putting it into another stock ECU? I thought these had to be flashed?

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

Well, if the injector wires are burned I'd think the problem is there.

Or is the fusible link located at the same spot?

The chip is what you need to swap. It has all the new maps. But the ecu needs to be modified a little.... you need to remove the original ROM and install an empty socket for the Stage 3 ROM to be pressed in.

It's really simple - you just need to be careful.

/T

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

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The description of the fault is vague. Even basic electrical knowledge seems to be absent. I believe there is no way that the alternator could be involved in the short circuit as has been described. It would appear that the original and standard wiring has been modified or disturbed

The evidence provided indicates that the illustrated injector, or its close connection, has become a direct short-circuit. This is the first point to be disconnected and checked.

The injectors are normally energized in sequence via the ECU, which is supplied via the main relay, and 30 amp fuse 2 located on the main fuse compartment under the hood. This fuse is included as the first overload protection.

If everything was as OEM, fuse 2 should have blown before the fusible link and limited the ECU supply current to 30 amps, which should not have caused the fire described. Even so, the protection afforded is minimal and damage to the ECU could be expected, but as things stand, is probably a certainty

It would appear that fuse protection has in some way been bypassed. This is bad news and dangerous as gasoline fumes are present.


Ray,

I don't really have any reason to suspect the Maniac alternator to be at fault at this time. Did you do any alternator wiring upgrades or check the original wires for cracking and corrosion. I eliminated a lot of these problems when I developed the new alternator wiring configuration.

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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

At this point I don't know for certain if it was the alternator. That is just speculation from the other threads that I found where the fusible link fried. I've taken the car back to AWD Tuning to see if they can determine what happened and how best to fix it.

With any luck, no other damage was done to the car. I didn't see the #2 fuse you mentioned, I didn't look at that. I just saw the fusible link was toasted so I remove it, then disconnected the battery terminals.

I'll let you know what I hear from AWD

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

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http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...1&d=1418064935


http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/2461.gif

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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

Thanks a lot for these! :) I've sent this thread link over to AWD. I hope it helps them narrow down the culprit. I'll let you know what I find out

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

The strange part is that it ran well for that week or more period..I assume nothing was touched in that period, right? Could some wiring have gotten progressively pinched/rubbed through re: the SC install ? Would seem like the injector wiring was getting shorted distal to the ECU output.

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

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In some other posts, there seemed to be some evidence or speculation that the technical ability at "ECUtune" could be suspect. It is quite possible that internal ECU Stage III mods have bypassed or eliminated fuse protection, by sourcing voltage from a different pin connection.

Food for thought...

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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

Amazon.com
Kidde 21006287 Auto Fire Extinguisher, 5BC, Silver
:)

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

Funny, but that is the extinguisher that I had in my house. Well, not the exact one, mine is red, but it is a 2lbs Kidde brand one.

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

Auto fire extinguisher. Keep one in your car. I do :)

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

i have seen this happen a lot on older vw (90's) because of a bad ground connection. the bad connection makes the power flow through the smaller grounds and ecu, melting wiring and frying the computer. never seen it on a subaru but quite a few vw. just something to check.

Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!
 

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One in the car, one in the garage. Halotron: no mess, residue or damage to components.

http://www.gatewayfiresupply.com/Buc...ign=amazon+PLA


The dry powder used in most ABC extinguishers is messy, horrible to remove and quote corrosive to electronics and wiring The dry powder main ingredient, ammonium phosphate, can have a chemical reaction with water and form into phosphoric acid which is a corrosive element. Potassium bicarbonate (baking soda) is also added.
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