SVX AC help please
 

Sorry prior post did not contain text - pushed wrong button.

Need AC expert to help me with this one.

06-21-05 - Brought 92 SVX to dealer for diagnosis (blows hot air) was working OK in AM. Total bill $97.90.

Diagnosed as needing new high pressure hose.

06-28-05 - Brought SVX to have hose replaced.
Total bill $374.94.

Drove car for one mile and brought it back to dealer due to AC blowing hot air.

Dealer said I needed O-ring on low side of system. Would order and overnight O-ring.

07-01-05 - Brought SVX to dealer to have O-ring on low side replaced. Total bill $181.29.

Car sat in garage over 4th of July weekend.

07-05-05 - Brought SVX back to dealer due to hot air.

07-06-05 - Dealer diagnosed compressor needing new seals. Dealer wants 600.00 for compressor plus labor, freon and the usual shop supplies.

Am I being hosed or is this normal for this vehicle?

I ve never had this type of AC problem on other cars I ve owned.

Please I need advice. Thank you.

Um...I'd say yeah, you're being hosed by that particular dealer, as you've probably already paid for the freon at least once. It doesn't sound like they're doing much diagnosing and just throwing parts, and your money, at it. I wonder when they're going to tell you that you also need a new drier? Perhaps on your fifth visit for the same problem, and then tell you that you need to pay for freon again? I'd say it's time to talk to the manager or take it some place else.

FYI: Aside from a new drier and associated o-rings, my 92 has all original AC parts and cost less than $150 to refit for R134, and that's including charge to have the system evacuated.

KuoH

A/C help...
 

Sounds like they might be throwing part's at it one at a time,to cover all their bases,I've been in the automotive repair business for some time now,and their way of diagnosing the problem sounds a bit off.
If it was blowing warm,and had no pressure the 1st time in,the system should have been evacuated to a vacuum,then charged with a dye added to the system at the same time,which would show any leaks under a flourecent light.
And the way I do it is,as I explained,then I take the car on a road test of at least 5-10 mile's,and if it is still blowing cold,and the pressure is ok,I let the car run with the a/c on for a couple of hour's,then shut it down and let it sit for a while,then give it another look over for any possible dye leaking out.
It is possible that you had or have more than one leak in your system,but should have been properly diagnosed the 1st time,cause you are probably being charged diagnostic fee's each time you brought it in.Not to mention,depending on the work done so far might have had some overlapping time on the repair's.I know everyone does it their own way,but still,1st time proper diagnosis is what usually keep's the customer happy.

I would agree that the way Mike has described is the proper way to do it. I would talk to them, or take it to someone else at this point. I can throw parts at it at a lower price, but I wouldn't even do that. :rolleyes: :( :(

Not being there, one can't say for sure, but I'm about 99.9% certain you're getting screwed.

When they change the first hose they should have pulled a vacuum for about a half-hour before putting in the freon, etc. That would have disclosed the O-ring leak.

It may well be your compressor is bad, but just don't go back there to find out & get the work done -- ask around and find another repair facility.

Have they even checked the pressure??

It's possible that they overcharged the system.
Take a look at the compressor with the engine running and AC on. Is the compresser turning at all? If so does it cycle? If it cycles then the pressure is incorrect.

I'm in a similar boat.

She's blowing hot air. I dropped her off at a A/C shop for a leak test and here's the result:
-one of the hose is leaking
-condenser is leaking on one side
-the body seal on the air compressor is leaking

Total cost for diagnose: $78 (one hour shop time)

Took the leaky hose off and took it to the shop for replacement/rebuild- $42

Now, I'm in the process of looking for an air compressor and a condenser. Found couple of leads from this site. Brand new compressor is $580 from Subaru parts, and a reman unit is about $200

Hopefully I can source an air comp and a condenser this week! My plan is to stick with R12 since it costs about $63/lb vs $40/lb for R134a.

Ali
'92

not trying to drum up business (because I don't get a cut :) ), but I bought a unit for my old MR2 and one for my SVX from the company that has one on Ebay almost all the time. It's been on both cars for a couple of years now with no issues (However, I seem to remember Earl having problems with them - might want to check before buying). Anyway, if you want to check them out, the guys I dealt with were located in Florida and did NOT require a core charge. They would prep the compressor for either R12 or 134a. They also sell driers, but I got it cheaper from Advance Auto parts (I think it's used by multiple vehicles). Condenser, sorry can't help.

I think this is the case with my SVX. Is there an easy way to remedy this or do I have to take it to a shop?

Just get a pressure gauge for the low pressure side of the A/C. If the pressure is too high then some of the refrigerant needs to be removed.

To remove properly it should be recovered but some people have illegally released their refrigerant into the atmosphere.

Dave, it is a bit hard to see if the compressor cycles. The clutch stays engaged all the time the AC is turned on. A solenoid in the compressor moves the wobble plate, to change the stroke of the pistons, to vary the output.

Harvey. ;)

It's supposed to. If the pressure is too high or too low it will cut out. (cycle)

Anyone have an actual number for the appropriate pressure range? My R134 refit kit came with a low side pressure gauge, but I don't really know what the normal reading should be.

KuoH

Do they not mark the acceptable pressure range right on the gauge?

It does have green, yellow and red zones, but I don't know that all AC systems run at the exact same pressures, plus there is a lot of variation depending on the ambient temperature. The pressure can range from 5 to 10 psi or more, it seems, between cold, warm and when the engine is hot. Some exact numbers would definitely be beneficial in knowing whether I am under or over, as I do get some occasional cycling of the compressor clutch.

KuoH